Autosport Labs

1.8 head, 2.0 crankshaft, ROSS pistons (lost the paperwork but I believe they are 9.9:1 CR), L-jetronic conversion, vacuum line connected to manifold (not throttle body...)

tuning by ears and butt-dyno only

I seemed to have success with this circuit, using the 1n4004 diodes connected the other way
http://www.hyakushiki.net/mcircuit.bmp

Unfortunately my spot welds gave up at 6K RPM and the toothed wheel disappeared across the highway so I'm kind of back to square one

cheers, TJ

I haven't got everything figured out here yet but there is one useful piece of information I remembered. On my car there is a relay that controls the power supply to the fuel pump(s) and this relay depends on the ignition pulse also. Maybe the tach signal satisfies the L-jetronic itself but not the ...

OK I still can't get it to run right without the vestigal distributor and coil. I tried connecting the two signals to the EDIS coil pack, through the diodes, to my tach and L-jet RPM input. Car doesn't start. I tried connecting the tach output from Mjlj to the tach/L-jet and the car will start once ...

I had a couple of wires melted to my exhaust manifold... that may have been the cause of the occasional glitches. The bracket for the sensor is pretty solid, I'm just a little concerned about the distance from the wheel. I'm going to go to the electronics store and get some diodes and try the sugges...

After I got my toothed wheel and VR sensor mounted where I wanted, or at least close enough that it had a chance of working :) I wired everything up and sure enough the car wouldn't start. It turns out fuel was the problem and not spark though. I have the Bosch L-jetronic from an '84 318i and appare...

does this help? rough guide to ignition maps: "As a starting point older two valve motors (1960 to 1990) should have max advance of 36, newer two valve motors 30. Then subtract 3 degrees for bores less than 89mm. Subtract 2 degrees for regular fuel, 1 degree for mid-grade and 0 for premium. Thi...

I'm in the northeast USA (where the record-breaking warm weather has unfortunately subsided). I checked with the parts recycler and they didn't sell crank pulleys so I went and looked at Ford Escorts in the yard again. I found that the crank pulley bolt (19mm) is accessible from the wheel well after...

Hi, I got some EDIS 4 parts at the junkyard but I still need the toothed wheel. It's colder than the devil outside and the crank pulley is well-hidden on those FWD cars So I'm wondering, is there a secret to removing that part? or can I order one from somewhere and for what price? Thanks