Kick back Whilst cranking

Supercharged Nat · Post by **Supercharged Nat** » Sun Aug 26, 2007 1:50 pm

Hi guys, ive been roaming these pages for a while and now ive got my mjl wired in. im trying to get the engine started on the edis only but having some problems.

while cranking the engine over it kicks back and slows the starter motor. itl only do it once as the motor almost stops and i let go of the key.

Im guessing its too advanced or the wrong firing order. ive checked all the plug leads and there correct, ive also checked the coil wiring and its ok to (a&b are in the correct edis pins and have continuety). the edis is getting power and ground and the vr sensor has continuety to the edis plug. (im sure that the vr sensor wires are connected correctly (polarity) because the colours of the wires matched from the sensor to the edis plug.

the crank trigger wheel is setup so that when the engine is at tdc, the sensor is on the ninth tooth (90degrees) from the center of the missing tooth (as per the edis installation pages).

to me it is either too advanced or the plugs are in the wrong firing order. (or one or more components are faulty).
does anyone have any ideas as to where to start (i dont have spares to try at the moment). or has anyone else delt with this problem.

the engine is a ford pinto (2.0l) the coil pack is the one with the off white/ beige bit in the top. when i say mjl not connected, the molex connector is just hanging free, not plugged in).

thanks for any help!

MartinM · Post by **MartinM** » Sun Aug 26, 2007 3:56 pm

The simplest thing to try to eliminate the "180 degrees our" problem is to swap the pairs of plug leads over
....or swap pins 10 and 12 at the EDIS OR swap the coil connections (but not both!)

Supercharged Nat · Post by **Supercharged Nat** » Sun Aug 26, 2007 4:14 pm

thanks for your reply. i didnt think the 180 degree problem could exist with the coil pack and edis setup, as the missing tooth always told the edis where the crank was?

you mentioned the 'pairs of plugs' does that mean, 1&2 and 3&4? or 1&3 and 4&2?

to swap the pin connections or wires means stripping back loom tape etc, and would like to try and avoid it.

Supercharged Nat · Post by **Supercharged Nat** » Sun Aug 26, 2007 6:34 pm

can anyone explain to me how the 180 degree problem exist with the edis system? does this sound more like a fault with one of the 3 main components?

thanks.

MartinM · Post by **MartinM** » Sun Aug 26, 2007 6:38 pm

The pinto firing order is 1-3-4-2 so you should have 1 and 4 sparking at the same time and 3 and 2 sparking at the same time.

You have to keep this togetherness but swap them around, so
-move lead 1 to 3
-move lead 2 to 1
-move lead 3 to 4
-move lead 4 to 2

MartinM · Post by **MartinM** » Sun Aug 26, 2007 6:43 pm

The problem isn't inherent, and it may not be your problem, but despite everyone checking everything a large number of times, it's surprising how often something gets switched round or mirror imaged etc

I did it on my first install.....

Supercharged Nat · Post by **Supercharged Nat** » Sun Aug 26, 2007 7:19 pm

NICE ONE!!! doing that and it fires up straight away! how the hell can it be? i guess by switching the leads around like that i has effectively switched coil A with coil B?? if thats the case its a bit weird because i know its wired as per the diagram on the website.

if you can confirm that it has effectively switched A&B il get to swapping the pin around so its how it should be.

thanks very much for your help!

Il get around to setting 10degrees and then get the mjl up and running!

can i ask one more question? (might not be the right place) but: looking at the mjl wiring diagram (the pin out for wiring in pip saw, +ve etc, is that looking at the actual mjl box connector or the one that plugs into the mjl box? (which would be a plug and bunch of wires)

thanks again!

MartinM · Post by **MartinM** » Sun Aug 26, 2007 9:22 pm

Good news!

The diagram at http://www.autosportlabs.net/MJLJ_V3_ve ... tion_guide is looking into the box ie with the box the normal way up (latch cut-out at the top):
- the top right is earth
- the bottom right is +12v
- the top left is OUTPUT 2
- the bottom left pin is TACH OUT

Looking into the plug ie the thing with the wires on it, with the latch at the top:
- the top left is earth
- the bottom left is +12v
- the top right is OUTPUT 2
- the bottom right is TACH OUT

rbalmford · Post by **rbalmford** » Sun Aug 26, 2007 9:23 pm

Hi, I made my loom from a Ford Zetec loom, such that the EDIS to coil pack wiring was already present, and found coilA and coilB were swapped compared to the wiring diagram on this site, and it runs fine as is (Xflow) - sounds like you have had the same experience. (I remember on the 'old' website it was pointed out that the wiring diagram was wrong in this respect - this might still be he case??). Maybe some others can confirm the EDIS-coil pack wiring that works for them.
Rich.

Post by **brentp** » Sun Aug 26, 2007 11:17 pm

Hi All,

I checked my notes and indeed we had an error on the EDIS 4 coil pack wiring diagram where the leads were swapped. Like Martin, I believe I wired it backwards too way back when i first did the install! It must be some sort of rite of passage.

I updated the graphic here: http://www.autosportlabs.net/MJLJ_V3_ve ... tion_guide

If the graphic is cached on your browser you may need to do a ctrl-refresh or shift-refresh depending on your web browser.

Thanks,

Supercharged Nat · Post by **Supercharged Nat** » Mon Aug 27, 2007 11:10 am

Excellent, im going for glory today then! will post in the power by forum when its all running good. or il be back here when its not

thanks very much for your help Martin and Brent!

benny boy · Post by **benny boy** » Fri Sep 07, 2007 12:26 pm

I had similar problems with my 1380 a series mini hillclimber. Swapping the 10 & 12 round on the EDIS meant it started on the first push of the button!

Sweeeet - great product, great site. It's all good.

....apart from the birds nest that is my wiring loom......

BB