Autosport Labs

Got the MJ hooked up to my mums old laptop that has a serial port- sweet!
But my edis system has packed in? No spark anymore- not so sweet!
Ordered new HT leads so hopefully thats the prob.. Any idea what the resistance should be across 1-4 & 2-3 on the coil pack just to make sure its not busted.
I took pin 2 out of the edis and put it in to where pin 11 should be for the tach, once I get a spark again i'll test it and post the results.
Cheers again
Craig

If your not getting a spark, what about an rpm on the computer screen when cranking? This should help eliminate if the EDIS is broken.

Also are you getting 12v and ground through the EDIS connector as it could be a power/grounding issue with a dodgy connector/earth.

Also check the continuity of the wire from the EDIS unit to the coil pack and you have 12V on the centre pin of the coil pack.

Finally double check the VR sensor connection and continuity from the EDIS to the VR connector.

Just somethings to double check before condeming the EDIS unit as they are usually bullet proof.

Getting no rpm signal whilst cranking so back to the scrap yard for more parts..... Even though it was perfect when first hooked in?? Maybe I crossed a connection somewhere and fried the module...

YAY!!! It's alive. . . . Dodgy coilpack was the problem
Getting the tacho running is the next issue.. I used the diode method that is on the main pages but all I get is idle and when touching the throttle the needle drops to zero..Any pointers on this?


Also found this online, does it make sense before I try? Here's a pic... Would this be taken from no11 pin on the edis or the tacho out on the megajolt?

I believe this is acting like a pull up resistor in the circuit. Basically for the circuit you have given, the tacho signal out may just ground and then float (not attached to anything). By adding a pull up resistor you would then have an output of 0v or 12v instead of floating, as the tacho is just connected to the resistor when floating and see's 12v. The reason for the resistor is to prevent the 12v from shorting on the 0v. I don't know why they have used a relay unless the inductor inside has some value to the circuit.

The V4 has already incorporated a pull up resistor within it design, so I would connect your tacho straight to the meagjolt tacho output and hopefully your problem is solved.

Innovative! You will need to find out the MTBF on the relay to see how long it will last performing those duties.

LOL Lads! I'm a bit lost with your replies..

Whats MTBF brent

Nitropixie, MJ tacho out dosen't work, only system that gives any result (all be it just an idle signal) is the diode per side of the coilpack joined and wired to the tacho as per main page...

Thanks again

My apolgises, i should of re-read. Try the Clear Tacho Output (CTO) on the EDIS unit. Fingers crossed it should work.

Seems I having zero luck!! My edis plug didn't have the no.11 (CTO) wire, so I took out no.4 and put it into no.11 and connected it directly to tacho... Nout.

I might try buying a suitable tacho that works with the Megajolt and try transfer the works to my own tacho.. what should I be looking for?

First proper drive and it's improved 200%!!!
Thanks for all your helps. .

Ps Tacho near sorted, found one off a later model that has an adjustable input to suit edis pin 11

MTFB = Mean Time Before Failure. How many cycles the relay is rated for before it fails.

Glad things are working!

Got the tacho working spot on.

Note to anyone converting a pinto powered capri III, if you have a model from 84 down get a tacho from an 85 onward and use the tach out (edis pin 11 didn't read properly) from the MJJL.
The tacho will have a small pot to calibrate, so with your laptop or multimeter giving the correct RPM adjust to match up.

Job done!

Thanks for all the help

Well done Craigory, glad its good news and you have managed to get it working. Keep up the good work!!!!

Does this mean we can have some pics now?? lol