Autosport Labs

Brent, does the V3 MAP sensor "kit" come with the extra "optional" 3 components, (C11, C14, L1) to enable the Vref line for map switching? The reason I ask is that a friend of mine is very interested in the "kit" after seeing mine. Whilst I can supply him with the 3 extra components, I thought that they may be included in the "kit".

Col

A good idea, perhaps in a seperate bag and boldy labelled "For MAP-switching enabling only" or something. It's how I'm planning on sorting the map switching on mine, just so it's tidier on the outside of the box.

The Map sensor kit doesn't come with those extra components.

We do have a few options for enabling the map switching:
http://www.autosportlabs.net/MJLJ_V3_ve ... tion_guide

What isn't documented is probably the easiest way: to put a 1K resistor in place of L1, you get a current limited 5v pull-up source. I've considered throwing in an extra resistor just to make it more convenient for those that want to enable MAP switching. I forget that not everybody has a supply of resistors hanging around.

The other good option is to patch in a pull-down on the option input, so you can switch maps with a single pole switch.

Regards,

Ok. I'll sort him out when he gets going... He apparently ordered the V3 MAP kit yesterday morning (UK time).

I installed the 3 components (L1, C11, C14) to recreate the Vref part of the TPS circuitry on mine only 40 minutes ago and upgraded firmware accordingly. So, I'll be playing with dual maps over the next couple of weeks.

I keep trying to convince my friends to go MJLJ, and so far, only one has gone for it...

I am actually adding the map switch to the Megajolt case. The Megajolt will reside behind my passenger seat, against the firewall of my 550 replica(mid engine two seater), so it'll be an easy reach while in the driver's seat. Also, less wiring to do in the loom.

capri_turbo wrote:I keep trying to convince my friends to go MJLJ

PMSL! Thank God I'm not the only one. I thought I was going mad

some of my friends think it's a great idea, but just aren't willing to go for it... they seem to be a bit scared of electronics... I think I'm the "Capri Guinneapig" on this one... now that mine has proved 100% reliable a few more are getting truly interested.

It's amazing what reaction the install gets at shows, and my MOT man was most impressed with it all. I'm going to do an info sheet on it for shows for people to read.

But, as I bet Gilesy998 has found... trying to "convert" people to MJLJ is proving difficult, but I have literally just heard that there are now 2 of my friends are currently doing installs so I'm getting there lol.

capri_turbo wrote:But, as I bet Gilesy998 has found... trying to "convert" people to MJLJ is proving difficult

I've got a couple of people engrossed, and they love it - one of them's registered here.
The problem I've got is the people who don't fully appreciate how sloppy the cam-driven timing of an a-seies engine can be and those who consider an electronic distributor to be as electronic as you can go. People seem perfectly happy to pour huge amounts of money into a fast road 1380 with a 286 cam, beautifuuly worked head and nitrided crank, but won't spend a small amount on getting the timing perfect, rather opting for a (sometimes admittedly very accurate) re-curved, points-triggered dizzy
Accurate, reliable water-tight ignition systems - should we consider ourselves the lucky informed few?

Gilesy998 wrote:

capri_turbo wrote:But, as I bet Gilesy998 has found... trying to "convert" people to MJLJ is proving difficult

I've got a couple of people engrossed, and they love it - one of them's registered here.
The problem I've got is the people who don't fully appreciate how sloppy the cam-driven timing of an a-seies engine can be and those who consider an electronic distributor to be as electronic as you can go. People seem perfectly happy to pour huge amounts of money into a fast road 1380 with a 286 cam, beautifuuly worked head and nitrided crank, but won't spend a small amount on getting the timing perfect, rather opting for a (sometimes admittedly very accurate) re-curved, points-triggered dizzy
Accurate, reliable water-tight ignition systems - should we consider ourselves the lucky informed few?

That me then G? TBH the biggest problem in the mini world is no one is willing to pay to get stuff set up right. They will blow hundreds on an engine but then won't cough £100-150 to get it setup so it runs and lasts. There's also a lot of "heratige" info floating about still which has been bettered (or was how the Works team did it because it worked for a few hundred miles then went pop but they didn't care) but is still be sold as the one true way. The timing chain thing is just gravy to a bigger problem. Also how many folks have recurved dizzys? A few have Aldons (generic curves so rubbish) and even less have custom curves. But again this is back to the setup thing, but for many it's ignorance rather than tightness especially on the dizzy which is one of the "magic" items in a car.

My biggest issue is trying to find a sodding ford in a scrappers!

Anyway back on topic: Can some one explain how I can populate the appropriate sections of the TPS circuit to allow me to use the Vref to feed the switch as I feel it's a much neater (and robust) solution than a resistor in the line.

Hi,

As mentioned elsewhere- the quickest way might be to put a 1K resistor in place of L1... that will give you a current limited feed of 5v to your switch.

Just that one? sorted, I think I have some 1K's about so will try that soon. Thanks.

(is that the components closest to the molex? as I can't see a L1 on the silkscreen just a 1)

Yep- that's the one.