At the risk of sounding like a smartarse..
"You simply keep changing the settings in a systematic manner until it is running at its best at all rpm/load conditions."
The magic two keys points are "in an systematic manner" and "running at its best"
Systematic manner = following a step-by-step plan designed to hone in on the best curve bit by bit...
eg.
you start off with the full-load points (pedal to the metal) and find the maximum amount of advance the motor will take without pinging at each rpm point, and depending on your motors sensitivity to advance, then you back it off anywhere from 1 to 5 degrees from that point.
Once you have the full noise curve in place and reasonably close, then you start adding advance at progressively lower load levels (to compensate for reduced effective compression when the engine is throttled) across the rpm range, Testing to verify all the way - Drive up hills, down hills, along freeways, take a co-pilot to either drive or fiddle, dont try to do both yourself. Rinse and Repeat - over and over and over again. Chances are you will be well bored of it before you hit the sweet spot, so be prepared to space the process out over days or weeks if you are new at it.
The second magic key-phrase "running at its best" is all up to skill of the tuner.
You need to be experienced and sensitive enough to be able to *feel* the engine feeling lazy or snappy, or lugging or pinging. To be able to detect small changes in throttle response, acceleration and smoothness. Or you need to have instrumentation (stopwatch, marked road, G-Meters, 1/4 Mile) to verify your seat-of-the-pants senses. If you have no way to verify the "running at its best" part, then you are just guessing based on gut-feel.
Or If your patience, skill, time or persistence at sticking to an intricate repetitive plan run out, then you take it to a professional with the right instruments (a dyno) to do it for you (pay $$),
or you copy a curve from someone with a combo (engine, car, carb, gears, cam etc) as close to your own as you can find, throw that at it, and leave it at that. you'll probably still be a fair way ahead of any old mechanical dizzy system.
Having the patience to adjust, test, repeat, and keep fiddling to Find those last few horses or responsiveness is what makes the difference between a pro "tuner" and an amateur..
Unfortunately, no how-to guide on a forum will make an amateur into a pro-tuner.. you need to do the hours testing and develop the feel, or just employ someone who has already done their time to do it for you.
(edit: heh, reading what I just wrote, I realise Mr NitroPixie already said pretty much exactly the same thing, which should give you a hint on the right way to do it

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