I may have a slight change of plan for my engine project which would result in me using a more modern block. The crank for this block actually has a tothed wheel built in to it and there is space to fit a crank sensor.
Would this crank sensor (VW/Audi) be compatible with the EDIS/MJLJ equipment?
Also, Does the toothed wheel have to be "36-1" (I haven't had a chance to get to the block to count the teeth yet...) - is it likely to be "36-1" anyway?
Cheers,
AL
Crank Sensor Question...
Moderators: JeffC, rdoherty, stieg, brentp
Some answers raise more questions
Yes, the toothed wheel has to be 36 -1 if it mounts on the crank, for the MJLJ. Ford selected this number for the EDIS; it works out nicely since there are 360 degrees in a revolution, each tooth is good for 10. Other manufacturers could select whatever number they wished, as well as use a wide tooth, instead of a missing one for TDC.
As for the non Ford sensor, some work some don't.
As for the non Ford sensor, some work some don't.
Right - so if the VW/Audi whe
Right - so if the VW/Audi wheel is of the 36 toothed variety (I know it has one missing), then that would be right, so it would just be a case of try the VW/Audi sensor, otherwise see if the ford one will fit...???
Cheers,
AL
Visit My Homepage at: http://freespace.virgin.net/al.macklen
Cheers,
AL
Visit My Homepage at: http://freespace.virgin.net/al.macklen
-verb agreement.
Yes, if the teeth are similar, about the same size as the gaps, then you can probably make it work. If the missing tooth and the sensor are not exactly in phase with #1 TDC, then you will have to compensate with the programmed timing values, and possibly use the opposite coil pack for the 1-4 pair. Because the coils fire 180 degrees apart, however, there is a possibility that the sensor is mounted such that the initial timing is too far away to be able to compensate.
the missing tooth should not
the missing tooth should not be at no.1 tdc please dont make this mistake like so many others have the missing tooth should be 90 degrees past the sensor (for a 4 cylinder engine)at tdc
sorry to correct you but ive seen you mention this on another post it will be very confusing for someone if they set there trigger wheel and sensor 90 degrees out as a friend of mine and other people i have since spoken to at car meets have found out its an easy mistake to make
sorry to correct you but ive seen you mention this on another post it will be very confusing for someone if they set there trigger wheel and sensor 90 degrees out as a friend of mine and other people i have since spoken to at car meets have found out its an easy mistake to make
OK - So with number 1 cyl at
OK - So with number 1 cyl at TDC, the sensor should be in line with the missing tooth. Whether the missing tooth be 2,10,90 or 180 degrees from "12 o'clock" is irrelevant, as long as the sensor is lined up with the missing tooth. Is that correct?
Cheers,
AL
Visit My Homepage at: http://freespace.virgin.net/al.macklen
Cheers,
AL
Visit My Homepage at: http://freespace.virgin.net/al.macklen
-
Todd Charles
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Mon May 24, 2004 5:08 pm
No, the missing tooth needs t
No, the missing tooth needs to 90° past the sensor when the engine is at TDC #1.
I mounted my sensor in a conveniant location then brought brought my engine to #1 TDC. My engine turns clockwise looking at the pulley while standing in front of the car. I counted 9 teeth counterclockwise on the wheel and marked this. I then lined this marked tooth up with the sensor. This is the way I then mounted the wheel to the crank. Hope this makes sense.
Todd
I mounted my sensor in a conveniant location then brought brought my engine to #1 TDC. My engine turns clockwise looking at the pulley while standing in front of the car. I counted 9 teeth counterclockwise on the wheel and marked this. I then lined this marked tooth up with the sensor. This is the way I then mounted the wheel to the crank. Hope this makes sense.
Todd
Obscuration
That is an excellent system, Todd. That was what I was getting at when I said "in phase" at TDC, and not aligned.
But also, the sensor could be placed at the opposite position on the wheel, tooth 27 using this system, or 270 degrees. The EDIS will still function the same, but the coil pack that was originally used for the 1-4 pair will now be used for the 3-2 pair. I realize that this further confuses the issue which is already confusing enough, but in an extraordinary circumstance such as the wheel already being permanently mounted to the crankshaft, or welded on to the balancer before the available sensor mounting locations were evaluated, it may have some relevance.
FYI, for a V8, the sensor can actually be mounted in four positions, 50, 140, 230 and 320 degrees. Each position will result in a different coil pack becoming the new #1 pack.
But also, the sensor could be placed at the opposite position on the wheel, tooth 27 using this system, or 270 degrees. The EDIS will still function the same, but the coil pack that was originally used for the 1-4 pair will now be used for the 3-2 pair. I realize that this further confuses the issue which is already confusing enough, but in an extraordinary circumstance such as the wheel already being permanently mounted to the crankshaft, or welded on to the balancer before the available sensor mounting locations were evaluated, it may have some relevance.
FYI, for a V8, the sensor can actually be mounted in four positions, 50, 140, 230 and 320 degrees. Each position will result in a different coil pack becoming the new #1 pack.