Datsun 1200

ggzilla · Post by **ggzilla** » Mon May 05, 2008 10:16 pm

Another success: Datsun 1200 running great with MJLJ. The kit was easy to assemble, and works great. Thanks Brent!

Completely Factory Stock A12 engine (except for EDIS & MJLJ)

I first used the Default map. It worked smoothly but had a conservative throttle response. Next I poured over the Nissan factory curve diagrams and created a new map to mimic that. The advance comes on quickly and has a lot of vacuum advance. It is more peppy than the Default map.

Now my Datsun 1200 is very happy, has a rock-solid idle and very smooth driving experience. The curve feels exactly like a new 1200! No more decades-old worn distributors to hassle with.

A-series Engine mockup

This is a Ford Aerostar sensor, the wheel is from Ford Escort USA

No-weld, No-drill Tooth Wheel solution:

I used a hacksaw to cut the serpentine pulley from the hub & wheel combo (1993 Escort USA pulley). I used a spacer and bolted together with a longer crankshaft pulley bolt. The tooth-wheel is not keyed to the crank in any way, just the torque of the bolt holds it in the right position.

Passenger compartment mounting for LHD Datsun:

Write-up: http://wiki.datsun1200.com/index.php/EDIS

Post by **brentp** » Tue May 06, 2008 6:53 am

Greetings from the Pacific Northwest!

Thanks for the installation write-up, and please do post your MAP in the ignition map library when you have a chance. Would like to see where you made the improvements in throttle response.

ggzilla · Post by **ggzilla** » Fri Nov 28, 2008 8:01 am

Here are the Nissan factory ignition curves.

I put the MJLJ map right on the high side of the factory tolerance for mechanical. The vacuum advance was tricky to map. My map is in the Library here: http://www.autosportlabs.org/viewtopic.php?p=8376

DannyP · Post by **DannyP** » Fri Nov 28, 2008 1:00 pm

That install looks very good. I would key the trigger wheel to the crank, though.

ggzilla · Post by **ggzilla** » Fri Nov 28, 2008 6:37 pm

Thanks, I'm pleased with how easy it was to do. Yes, keying the trigger wheel would help align the timing. On the other hand, I don't think it is going to shift. There is no load on the wheel except its own inertia and I used a torque wrench to tighten the bolt to factory specification. Time will tell -- has anyone had such a setup fail?

ggzilla · Post by **ggzilla** » Fri Feb 26, 2010 8:16 am

Well it's been almost two years and it's still running perfectly. Still a rock-solid idle, with no intermittent variations in idle speed. Last summer my idle speed dropped a bit, but still rock-solid. Ater a tune-up, not touching the timing or changing the plugs (just inspected the plugs which looked great), it was back to normal idle speed.

Now that I've got a baseline I might start tuning the curve beyond the Nissan factory curve