Trouble shooting-?No sparks!!!
Moderators: JeffC, rdoherty, stieg, brentp
Re: Trouble shooting-?No sparks!!!
deleted my post as i was answering a 2 1/2 year old request. oops.
Last edited by alexander on Thu Dec 04, 2008 12:34 am, edited 1 time in total.
Hopefully Tony got it working by now as the post is over 2.5 years old!
For sierra2d's trigger wheel- by looking at the upper right hand corner of the pic the shadow tells me it appears to be reasonably thick, but I too would be nervous about the adjacent metal from the pulley. However, I've seen installations similar to this work successfully, to my surprise.
The gap and angle should be closed up for certain. If it were my setup, I would almost consider testing with the sensor rotated 90 degrees, sensing the face of the trigger wheel.
And sanity check: The VR sensor is polarized. did you try swapping the sensor wires around?
For sierra2d's trigger wheel- by looking at the upper right hand corner of the pic the shadow tells me it appears to be reasonably thick, but I too would be nervous about the adjacent metal from the pulley. However, I've seen installations similar to this work successfully, to my surprise.
The gap and angle should be closed up for certain. If it were my setup, I would almost consider testing with the sensor rotated 90 degrees, sensing the face of the trigger wheel.
And sanity check: The VR sensor is polarized. did you try swapping the sensor wires around?
Indeed it shall,thanks Brentbrentp wrote:That reference location should work.
The port is standard on the DGAV. I don't see a brake-booster take-off. The take-off I've use is for the crankcase breather like Colin Cash,forum user capri_turbo,has done in his conversionbrentp wrote:Was port freshly installed or was it existing? Does the manifold also have a connection for a brake-booster?
http://www.harland-waide.co.uk/wrcc/megajolt.htm
Yeh,I've seen archive posts about that,1mm or less.brentp wrote:Ideally your sensor should be square to the teeth, with a close to 1mm gap.
I wishbrentp wrote:If your engine runs smoothly with no misses, then it's probably 'close enough'.
100% correctalexander wrote:sierra, re the trigger wheel, aside from brents comment about proximity and angle, it looks like your trigger wheel is a bit thin. that would likely not be a problem if it were not mounted flat against the crank pulley. seems to me that the trigger wheel is no more than 5mm thick? or thereabouts,so i am guessing that the relatively massive crank pulley right next to it is preventing the VR from experiencing a sufficient swing in magnetic field, to create a voltage spike.
If you look to the left at the picture of the trigger wheel,you should notice a bolt head. I've welded an extension to fasten down the wheel. As you say,spacers will be the best option,which I'm going to try.alexander wrote:there may be other issues, but one way of dealing with that would be to take the pulley off, and drill holes right through the crank pulley to match the trigger wheel. tedious, yes! should take about an hour on the drill press, based on my experience. i am assuming it is welded to the pulley? if it is bolted on, then spacers to make it stand off 5-10mm would be even easier.
Point noted,will need to drill and tap the manifoldalexander wrote:re the vac takeoff to the MJ. based on other posts here over time, might be a good idea to make sure the tube goes up, rather than down, lest petrol collect in the low point of the hose.
no,I'll give that a try. Although whilst my neighbour was cranking the engine,I only saw one spark jumping from the HT lead to spark plug,nothing after that.brentp wrote:And sanity check: The VR sensor is polarized. did you try swapping the sensor wires around?