Update:--I've got a spark!!! Don't any of you be laughing

sierra2dr · Post by **sierra2dr** » Fri Jan 30, 2009 5:33 pm

More like,you all will be shaking your heads in disbelief.

Well the numbers on the coilpack,I thought they were there for reference to place the HT leads to the correct cylinder. For example,1 on the coilpack goes to cylinder 1,which is correct anyway. Number 2 on the coilpack I placed onto cylinder 2,3 on the coilpack I placed onto cylinder 3 and 4 onto cylinder 4

The firing order on my Sierra is 1-3-4-2,hoping I have this correct,I have written in the terminals the order I have placed the HT leads.

I have two coilpacks,and one of them does not have the numbers on. So what I had done sometime ago,was copied the sequence on this one

I've used tipex correction fluid to mark the coi

lpack.

What baffles me is,in the top picture it has the numbers on the coilpack,4 is at the top,1 is at the bottom

Dean924s · Post by **Dean924s** » Sat Jan 31, 2009 4:44 am

They can be interchanged. They both fire at the same time so the number don't really matter. Think it as two coils each with two terminals. I suspect that the numbers are there for Te routing of the wires on what ever motor they cam off of.

Take a look here
http://www.autosportlabs.org/viewtopic. ... c&start=15
I have photos of two coils that are labeled in revers as well. The one in the photo that you posted looks exactly Ike the one I got form a 1997 contour where as the 1994 escort coil has the 1 and the 4 reversed. The bigger and more important thing to note is that the plugs are different so what e use try to note what car it came from so if it dies you can get another one from the parts store if needed.

sierra2dr · Post by **sierra2dr** » Sat Jan 31, 2009 6:38 pm

superb Dean!!! I had thought there had been such topic,but wasn't to sure

sierra2dr · Post by **sierra2dr** » Sat Jan 31, 2009 9:13 pm

Right. I've just done a video of the spark timing,with a timing gun against the pulley marks to give me an idea what degrees No;1 cylinder is firing on. It appears to be correct. Of course,EDIS is a wasted spark system and the timing gun will flash when No:1 cylinder is on exhaust stroke.
Question is,when cylinder 4 is firing at 10 degrees,what degrees will cylinder 1 be at when on exhaust?
Here's a picture to give you an idea where to look in the vid

I've used tipex to locate the timing marks

Post by **brentp** » Sat Jan 31, 2009 9:38 pm

I watched your video. Tangential question- do you have even compression across all cylinders?

sierra2dr · Post by **sierra2dr** » Sun Feb 01, 2009 5:32 am

brentp wrote:I watched your video. Tangential question- do you have even compression across all cylinders?

Compression should be ok,as the engine was running prior to Megajolt/Edis installation. I think it's just a fuel matter.

sierra2dr · Post by **sierra2dr** » Fri Mar 27, 2009 6:02 pm

Right,I've had another bash at it today to get my Sierra running,and with the help of my neighbour,it is up and running. But bloody'ell! What a commotion when getting it to run. Take into account I'm using a DGAV carb.
Firstly,the wires from the igntion barrel are split due an attempted theft,which I have used to the advantage of having an external means of cranking the engine over...

...instead of the key in the ignition,so I can see if there is a spark from a plug in the engine bay,against an earth point. So far so good,I'm getting the spark. But,when I try to fire up via the key in the ignition,I get no spark

Next is where my helpful neighbour assisted (not forgetting to mention that he has been helpful in the past,when hunting for a spark) who suggested cranking the engine from the starter motor...hmmm,I'm thinking,not too sure about that,as I am somewhat sceptical/cautious when around live feed,easily spooked

. Eventually I thought I'll give it a try with a long screwdriver. The first crank scared the living daylights out of me

Eventually I felt comfortable in doing it. After so many attempts to get it running,alot of spluttering,coughing and flames thrown out of the carb,it eventually ran

But I can't grasp why it won't spark on the key. Suggestions most appreciated,thanks

dr.occa · Post by **dr.occa** » Fri Mar 27, 2009 9:11 pm

sierra2dr wrote:Right,I've had another bash at it today to get my Sierra running,and with the help of my neighbour,it is up and running. But bloody'ell! What a commotion when getting it to run. Take into account I'm using a DGAV carb.
Firstly,the wires from the igntion barrel are split due an attempted theft,which I have used to the advantage of having an external means of cranking the engine over...

...instead of the key in the ignition,so I can see if there is a spark from a plug in the engine bay,against an earth point. So far so good,I'm getting the spark. But,when I try to fire up via the key in the ignition,I get no spark
Next is where my helpful neighbour assisted (not forgetting to mention that he has been helpful in the past,when hunting for a spark) who suggested cranking the engine from the starter motor...hmmm,I'm thinking,not too sure about that,as I am somewhat sceptical/cautious when around live feed,easily spooked . Eventually I thought I'll give it a try with a long screwdriver. The first crank scared the living daylights out of me Eventually I felt comfortable in doing it. After so many attempts to get it running,alot of spluttering,coughing and flames thrown out of the carb,it eventually ran
But I can't grasp why it won't spark on the key. Suggestions most appreciated,thanks

could be bad ignition or poor lead to get the starter spinning.

sierra2dr · Post by **sierra2dr** » Sat Mar 28, 2009 5:47 am

dr.occa wrote:could be bad ignition or poor lead to get the starter spinning.

Probably due to my explanation,it has misled you. The starter does spin via the ignition key. I'm going to opt in changing the live feed leading from the edis and MJ from the accessories wire (solid yellow) to a different ignition wire.

Gilesy998 · Post by **Gilesy998** » Sat Mar 28, 2009 11:48 am

That have you tried temporarily linking out the +12V feed direct from the battery? Quite often "accessory" power in switched off while the engine is cranking - exactly when you want a spark.

sierra2dr · Post by **sierra2dr** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 9:18 am

Gilesy998 wrote:That have you tried temporarily linking out the +12V feed direct from the battery? Quite often "accessory" power in switched off while the engine is cranking - exactly when you want a spark.

yeah...that's what I'm thinking. Just like on a radio headset,it goes off when cranking. Well here's a vid of it running

Dean924s · Post by **Dean924s** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 12:41 pm

Sounds great!!!!!. Wait till you drive it! I was absolutely astounded at how much better my car runs now that I got it sorted.

BTW I was watching the first video and it looked like you were getting intermittent spark. In other words you should see a constant pulse of the spark in a regular pattern or rhythm. I suspect that you may have also had a bad connection. Possibly with the VR sensor? But it looks like you got it now!

sierra2dr · Post by **sierra2dr** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 7:51 pm

Thanks Dean. I put the timing light on it and it is running around 12 degrees,so I'll have to adjust the CAS.
I have a problem with the carb,the automatic choke housing broke off...oh well,easily fixed