V3.3.0 firmware / configuration software - for V3 hardware
Moderators: JeffC, rdoherty, stieg, brentp
I tried to reproduce this, but I did not reproduce what you observed.
I am running with the default calibration, but after reviewing the code I don't see how changing calibration would affect things. Still, I will look at it a bit more.
If anyone else can reproduce this, showing results one way or another, that would be great!
I am running with the default calibration, but after reviewing the code I don't see how changing calibration would affect things. Still, I will look at it a bit more.
If anyone else can reproduce this, showing results one way or another, that would be great!
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- v3.3.0_aux_in.jpg (63.1 KiB) Viewed 25170 times
Here is screen recording of what I did (I prepared it in Linux, so I hope that you can watch it in winblows, it's DivX file):
http://www.ptt.rs/korisnici/i/v/ivica/slike/demo.avi
15.01.09 - I did some editing on the original file, and added another version to youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00C4QRAV3RA
http://www.ptt.rs/korisnici/i/v/ivica/slike/demo.avi
15.01.09 - I did some editing on the original file, and added another version to youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00C4QRAV3RA
'87 BMW 316 E30
1600cc M10B16
petrol + LPG, MJLJ
1600cc M10B16
petrol + LPG, MJLJ
When connecting several outputs from the sensor in parallel, don't you affect the readings ?
I remember at least that, if you wanted to run a MegaSquirt in parallell with stock ECU - if you had both stock ECU and MS connected to WaterTemperature sensor, you needed to remove a bias resistor from the MS pcb so not to confuse the stock ECU.
Or am i completely wrong here ? I have a a gauge on my instrument panel, and intend to connect to my MJLJ in parallel for water temperature.
I remember at least that, if you wanted to run a MegaSquirt in parallell with stock ECU - if you had both stock ECU and MS connected to WaterTemperature sensor, you needed to remove a bias resistor from the MS pcb so not to confuse the stock ECU.
Or am i completely wrong here ? I have a a gauge on my instrument panel, and intend to connect to my MJLJ in parallel for water temperature.
All those who believe in telekinesis, raise my hand now !
That was my idea too, but I was told that it probably would not work, that I'll probably need to add another sensor.
BTW, did you try to connect temp sensor to MJLJ? Can you reproduce my problem? Or is it working as it should?
I again downloaded both tuning software and controller firmware, flashed MJLJ, installed tuning software on the freshly installed OS (Vista), and nothing changed.
BTW, did you try to connect temp sensor to MJLJ? Can you reproduce my problem? Or is it working as it should?
I again downloaded both tuning software and controller firmware, flashed MJLJ, installed tuning software on the freshly installed OS (Vista), and nothing changed.
'87 BMW 316 E30
1600cc M10B16
petrol + LPG, MJLJ
1600cc M10B16
petrol + LPG, MJLJ
3.3.1 config software has been updated- restored missing engine configuration combo-box.
http://www.autosportlabs.net/MJLJ_V3_Do ... d_Versions
When I was re-testing this software with this firmware I was observing periodic timeout errors while reading runtime data, but only with the 'engine' running. This was also happening with the 3.3.0 config software.
Funny that I didn't observe this before; can anyone else with V3 hardware running this firmware verify?
Thanks,
Brent
http://www.autosportlabs.net/MJLJ_V3_Do ... d_Versions
When I was re-testing this software with this firmware I was observing periodic timeout errors while reading runtime data, but only with the 'engine' running. This was also happening with the 3.3.0 config software.
Funny that I didn't observe this before; can anyone else with V3 hardware running this firmware verify?
Thanks,
Brent
Yvan,
You might have done this already, but since I have not been able to reproduce on my end (yet) I would suggest re-loading the beta firmware, with the default AUX input scaling, and verify the voltage change directly on the ADC input pin on the processor. At the same time, monitor the user output state.
If someone else can test this feature that would be immensely helpful.
Thanks,
You might have done this already, but since I have not been able to reproduce on my end (yet) I would suggest re-loading the beta firmware, with the default AUX input scaling, and verify the voltage change directly on the ADC input pin on the processor. At the same time, monitor the user output state.
If someone else can test this feature that would be immensely helpful.
Thanks,
But if AUX input gauge shows temp change, surely that part must be OK?
Anyway, I should measure voltage change at AUX pin (and ground) on the board? Nothing there. It reads 0.00V. But I just heated temp sensor from a room temperature to the body temperature. AUX input gauge went from 60 to 47.
Anyway, I should measure voltage change at AUX pin (and ground) on the board? Nothing there. It reads 0.00V. But I just heated temp sensor from a room temperature to the body temperature. AUX input gauge went from 60 to 47.
'87 BMW 316 E30
1600cc M10B16
petrol + LPG, MJLJ
1600cc M10B16
petrol + LPG, MJLJ
Hi Yvan,
Sorry for the confusion. To clarify what I was requesting:
1. Reflash with the latest beta firmware (to eliminate any changes- especially to restore calibration data)
2. Using your volt-meter, monitor the ADC input pin right on the processor chip (pin 8 )
3. Compare the aux input gauge in the software against your volt meter- and test the user output in AUX mode- verify the voltage is changing with the gauge, and the output triggers correctly.
I will also double-check on my end. If anyone else can test as well, that would be great.
Regards,
Sorry for the confusion. To clarify what I was requesting:
1. Reflash with the latest beta firmware (to eliminate any changes- especially to restore calibration data)
2. Using your volt-meter, monitor the ADC input pin right on the processor chip (pin 8 )
3. Compare the aux input gauge in the software against your volt meter- and test the user output in AUX mode- verify the voltage is changing with the gauge, and the output triggers correctly.
I will also double-check on my end. If anyone else can test as well, that would be great.
Regards,
Last edited by brentp on Mon Mar 30, 2009 5:46 am, edited 1 time in total.
OK, I did it.
I used a cup with a cold (tap) water, and a cup with a warm (~65 Celsius or ~150 Fahrenheit) water and dipped temp sensor to each cup.
No voltage change. It stays at 0.00V.
But when I pulled out the sensor from cold to warm voltage raised to 1V and gradually went down. Change from warm to cold resulted in instant 0.00V. Again cold to warm up to ~1V and gradually down.
So I thought it may have something to do with a fact that cup for cold water was made of metal. I changed to ceramic one, and now again cold or warm it was 0.00V.
Again back to metal cup - 0.00V.
What voltage change should I expect here?
Just to mention all the time AUX gauge was changing from 70 (cold) to 25 (warm).
I used a cup with a cold (tap) water, and a cup with a warm (~65 Celsius or ~150 Fahrenheit) water and dipped temp sensor to each cup.
No voltage change. It stays at 0.00V.
But when I pulled out the sensor from cold to warm voltage raised to 1V and gradually went down. Change from warm to cold resulted in instant 0.00V. Again cold to warm up to ~1V and gradually down.
So I thought it may have something to do with a fact that cup for cold water was made of metal. I changed to ceramic one, and now again cold or warm it was 0.00V.
Again back to metal cup - 0.00V.
What voltage change should I expect here?
Just to mention all the time AUX gauge was changing from 70 (cold) to 25 (warm).
'87 BMW 316 E30
1600cc M10B16
petrol + LPG, MJLJ
1600cc M10B16
petrol + LPG, MJLJ
Yvan, don't take as an insult, but was the sensor grounded when you tried to take the readings?
This gives me an idea for a warmup program on my car. With a temp sensor and the aux input, I can add a few degrees of advance to keep the rpms up until the engine is warm. Does this make any sense to anyone?
This gives me an idea for a warmup program on my car. With a temp sensor and the aux input, I can add a few degrees of advance to keep the rpms up until the engine is warm. Does this make any sense to anyone?