Install on Mopar small block

[Flo]

HI, I will try to report my install. This was used sucessfully on the engine dyno until I kiilled the engine (not an ignition problem...).

Parts list:

1 VR-Sensor Volkswagen ABE 038907319D or ABE 038907319F
1 36-1 toothed wheel from 90s Escort with 1.9 litre engine
1 EDIS module for V8 from Crown Vic, Mustang etc.
2 coil packages from 90s Escort, Crown Vic or Mustang
1 Mopar SB pulley set of your choice
3 brackets acc. To drawings below
as much Ford and VW wiring as you can get


I found the system to be pretty tolerant regarding the actual VR-sensor to be used. I am using a Volkswagen part ABE 038907319D. An alternative part no. is ABE 038907319F
This thing is built in millions and it fits the Mopar package a lot better than the Ford parts I found.



it works just fine

my intention was to create an application that does not screw up the belt alignment. Most installs I have seen add a spacer between the belt pulleys and the balancer which creates a bunch of trouble.
Here you see what I did:


I still can use my stock pulleys, brackets and everything else. Also I still can use my stock timing marks.

What I did was to take off the 36-1 gear of a 90s Ford Escort with the 1.9 liter engine. This is almost a pressfit on the spacer thing for the pulleys of the LA small block which bolts to the balancer. Some machining of the pulley makes it a pressfit. A balancer with the outer ring removed makes a perfect fixture for the pulley on the lathe.
Paying attention to the phasing I pressed the Ford ring gear on the pulley. I did not even add spot welds, which someone could do if worried about it moving.

Now what was left to do was a bracket for the VR sensor. As mentioned before I am using a Volkswagen VR sensor ABE 038907319D. All the brackets are designed for that one

My bracket incorporates a sliding part to adjust the base timing. This is actually overkill if you either work super precise or compansate with the software. I wanted to have my 10° limp-home timing correct, so I made it adjustable. Once the timing is set you should NEVER have to touch it again.

I bolt my VR-sensor on using the oilpan bolts. This is NOT perfect. Theoreticalls the whole fitment can be confused with using a different oil pan gasket, a windage tray etc. Practically you are not going to change this stuff so often and my bracket is a "weld to fit design". I bolted part one to the pan:


then take bracket part two:


The radius of 92.5 on this part is for positioning it relative to the balancer!

You use feeler gauges for a good distance between the bracket and the balancer (I think I calculated 1mm if you know the diameter of the balancer you can confirm it!) and spot weld it together on the engine!

now all you have to do is to bolt the sensor to the sliding adjusting part and mount it on the bracket:



The 11mm slot in the bracket part two will allow an M6-nut to slide in there.
If you worked properly your VR-sensor-tip should have 1mm to the toothed wheel. I bolted the sensor to the bracket before welding just to make sure...

Wire up the basic EDIS system (even without the Megajolt controller) and you can set your base timing to 10 degrees with the adjusting slots.

This system worked awesome for me on the dyno! I am open for all feedback.

All measurements in mm!

Flo

Disclaimer: I refuse any responsibility for correctness of the given information. I am not responsible for any damage or harm resulting from building or using parts like described. This is for experimantal purposes only![/img]

[brentp]

This is fantastic, thank you! First reported use of the VW sensor- we'll keep this information handy.

We're going to move this to the 'powered by' section of our forums.

Question: Why did you choose this route instead of the typical CDI / distributor based ignitions so popular on these engines?

What vehicle is this going into?

Thank you,

[Flo]

This engine was supposed to go into my 67 Plymouth Fury. It was a 318 roller block stroked to 349 with Edelbrock heads and a hydraulic roller cam. Unfortunately I destroyed it on the dyno (cracked a lifter bore after chewing up something...), so this block is going nowhere except the scrap pile. The EDIS part will work on the next small block though!

There were several reasons to leave the distributor route:
-The dis on SB Mopars is turned by the cam. So there is slack in the timing chain and in the dis gear at the end of the cam. I put in a timing chain tensioner to take the slack out of the chain for the cam at least, but this is a band aid.
-I like the possibility to precisely set the timing via software and be sure it will work like that instead of messing around with weights and vacuum pods. I have had bad experience with distributor ignitions before. Just the fact that there is a rotor and mechanics and moisture can get in and... distrbutors just suck!
-I really like the opportunities of the programmable switches and rev limiter. I wanted to put a 4 speed auto in the car (A500), where overdrive and lock up are solenoid controlled. The Megajolt offers me programmable vacuum switches which is just awesome!
-The whole EDIS / Megajolt system is barely if at all more expensive than a good electronic ignition kit (MSD or whatever) for one of these motors and they offer much less options. The whole CDI stuff is way overrated in my opinion. I did not ahve a very radical cam in there, the torque numbers on the dyno proved the EDIS to be just fine.
-Megajolt is also a good first step to Megasquirt. I was not sure if I wanted to go fuel injected later on. If I did I could have used most of my install to feed a Megasquirt after getting the motor running with a carb first.

What really was a problem was to get ignition wire connectors for the EDIS coils. I needed customs plug wires (besides the custom install I prefer solid copper core wires) and there was pretty much nothing available in Germany. I was also a PITA to get the little connector inserts for the EDIS plugs. They are not available here at all. I eventually had to solder to junkyard connectors.

[Flo]

got a question about the VW sensor having three pins insted of the Ford's two. One pin of the VW sensor is just ground for shielding (correct word in English?). I grounded it with the Megajolt.
Greets
Flo