Engine does not start

[magicecu]

I have a v4 and latest firmware, EDIS 4, and other bits to match and on MAP. I have checked the voltages to PIP, SAW and VR sensor and every thing is OK. The loaded map is the original MJLJ one. I`am getting a spark on all 4 plugs. What concerns me is the timing mark it is no where near TDC when engine running, about 180% out. The engine starts up and goes when connected to the basic original coil and dizzy. Its a K-Series 1.8i normaly aspirated. Would the Temperature gauge on AUX which seems to be working fine although the scaling is the opposite to ADC 255-0 INSTEAD OF 0-255 and also needs scaling properly.

[NITROPIXIE]

Sounds like your wires are mixed up to your plugs. Try swapping cylinder 1 ignition lead with 2 and cylinder 3 ignition lead with 4 and retest..

I think you have basically got 2 out of the 3 wires from your EDIS to your Coil pack the wrong way round. For a permanent fix swap wire 1 with 3 to the coil pack from the EDIS.

Ryan

[magicecu]

Thanks for your quick reply NITROPIXIE , i have connected the plug wires from a Motorcraft coil pack which has the cylinder numbers written on it, but have a ford focus coil pack which does not, do you know if they are numbered the same? The results are the same so far. I will look at the changing of 1 and 3 wire as of your suggestion, was this because of the leads being mixed up or it is a separate fix to be done anyway?

[NITROPIXIE]

If the coil packs are both orientated the same way round then yes they should be the same.

Yes change wires 1 and 3 on the coil pack LT lead. I would guess that you have got the leads the incorrect way round whilst you were wiring it all up or got confused with orientation of the plug.

Just for information cylinders 2 and 3 will fire at the same time when their cylinders are at the top, when the timing mark is at the bottom, 180 degrees out to cylinder 1 tdc. Cylinders 1 and 4 will fire when the timing mark is near its correct position (depending on advance).

[magicecu]

I have got the gap on the 36-1 wheel lined up with the timing mark on the pulley, and the sensor positioned 90 degrees before TDC, do you think this is correct? I used a timing light connected to number1 cylinder and observed at tick over the timing mark on the pulley at about 5 oclock, i could have sworn when i checked the timing before the timing mark on the pulley was at about the 8-10 degrees notch on the engine. I have checked the cam and crank shaft timing marks are in alignment, do you think the dizzy rotar arm could be out? Thanks alot for your help.

[NITROPIXIE]

Can you confirm the direction your crankshaft rotates?? If you have mounted the VR sensor 90 degrees after and your wiring is correct then the ignition system will still work but would be 180 degrees out. Just another possibility as to what you may have.

What you have done does sound very correct.

The 5 o clock sounds about right if the timing light was picking up on cylinder 2 or 3 (if correct). If you changed the leads over then it should be at about the 11 o clock postion which would be approx 30 degrees advance on the crankshaft. Its difficult to say without it in front of me, lol.

[magicecu]

Pulley turns clockwise to front of engine.

[magicecu]

Success, i have changed the wires around and these where the original lead ones from coil pack to EDIS 4, wired up wrong according to the Installation document on the Autosport LABS Forum. I do not seem to get any spark when engine cold, but when warm it fired and ticked over, but alas no accelaration. My Map reading is good and there is no smoke or fuel smell. I`am thinking its something to do with my aux input Temparature gauge scaling, or the right Map.

[BRUCEROE]

I sent a file to AUTOSPORTS LABS, which reverses the readout and properly scales it to read degrees F when using the very common (2 wire, EFI) coolant temp sensor. Bruce Roe

[magicecu]

I have no spark when the engines cold using just the MJLJ. No accelaration after running engine at tick over after starting when engine warm using MJLJ. Would the connection to the existing ECU stop the fuel from being available if the plugs where disconnected so no earth?

[magicecu]

Going to try the plug leads to the coil in a differant config, should solve acceleration problem. Does the Aux connection when fitted to a temperature sensor affect when the coil starts to fire? Thanks for your help BRUCEROE but where is that file you mentioned?

[NITROPIXIE]

Hey Magic

Been thinking about the direction of rotation of the crankshaft and it doesn't actually really matter as the coils are fired at opposite sides of the trigger wheel.

I have no spark when the engines cold using just the MJLJ. No accelaration after running engine at tick over after starting when engine warm using MJLJ. Would the connection to the existing ECU stop the fuel from being available if the plugs where disconnected so no earth?

Having no spark when the engine is cold does sound unusual. How have you confirmed this??? and how do you mean by just using the mjlj?? What ecu do you have and how did you connect it up??

Going to try the plug leads to the coil in a differant config, should solve acceleration problem. Does the Aux connection when fitted to a temperature sensor affect when the coil starts to fire? Thanks for your help BRUCEROE but where is that file you mentioned?

The ignition leads should be fine of you have gone by the numbers on the coil pack (if there are any). If there aren't you can use a multimeter and test the continuity of one coil connection on the coil pack to another. Cylinders 1 and 4 should have continuity as they attached to the same coil, like wise with cylinders 2 and 3. The Temperature Sensor will only affect when the coils fire if you have programmed it to do so in the Advance Correction page in the mjlj software. If they are all 0 then there wont be any change.

Also can you confirm operation of the Ignition circuit without the MJLJ and confirm you actually have approx 10 degrees advance. Or confirm the advance you have displayed on the mjlj software, with the engine running, using a timing light and the timing marks on the engine. Its very important this is done so we can confirm how accurately you have set it all up.

[magicecu]

I have rested a spark plug connected to the coil on the engine, earthing it and observed the starting of sparking occuring. Just using the MJLJ meant i did not test spark with own mems 1.9 only. The MJLJ i have connect as Autosport LABS diagrams, the other is seperate already fitted as standard. Does the coil draw 12 volts to keep at a charged state for starting if so how does it earth to do this, not through the plugs i assume. I`ll get it ticking over again and check advance.

[magicecu]

I have checked the coil and found i get about 19 ohms resistance when checking condinuity with leads attached, on the 1-4 the reading is steady but when i try the 2-3 i hardly get any resistance at all, just a quick flash of resistance then nothing. I checked this with my Ford series 1 coil pack and found it done the same. Coil will still not spark until engine has got to half way to maximum engine temperature, so cannot check running because engine keeps getting cold. The last advance reading i have through the software was 12 degrees but although i had it ticking over smoothly did not capture data. Do you think the EDIS is faulty. Thanks

[magicecu]

My coil has a 12 volt centre wire feed and earths through the two outer wires, when engine is running and off, not on MJLJ. The VR sensors two wires give the same 1.53 volts to there connection with the EDIS 4 on pins 5 and 6 when running. So the VR sensor the coil pack seem to be working OK but not sure whether the EDIS 4 is allowing the coil pack to send voltage to the coil for a spark when engine cold or maybe it takes about 5 minutes for the coil to charge after being disconnected from voltage.