Megajolt v4 edis voltage issues

[adcyork]

It came to the point today to carry out a first start of the fresh 1330 build running megajolt.

I can't get a spark at the plug. I have tried reversing the sensor polarity and checked the sensor gap which is set at 0.6mm so no issues there.

I've run through the expected voltages section of the installation guide that is on autosport labsand these are my findings: (all voltages taken from the corresponding edis pins)

Voltage across VR sensor terminal when not running is 0v
Voltage across pins 5 and 6 when cranking is 0.8V (should be 2.5V AC)
Voltage across 5 and 6 when not running is 2.5V (should be 0V i understand)
Voltage between pin 1 and ground when not running is 11.2V but when cranking drops to under 1V! Surely this is a major issue?

Can anyone shed any light on this please? The car is ready to go after a full 18 month rebuild and this is now the only thing holding me up.

[Spockie-Tech]

You didnt mention which model EDIS you are using.
I'm assuming here that a 1330 = some sort of Mini engine capacity variant and you are running an EDIS-4 ?

If so, you also didnt mention that you have verified the EDIS has a good 12v power connection on pin 8 (on the installation guide). The EDIS is pretty darn simple to get going in standalone (limp mode).

Leave the Megajolt disconnected for now. (Unplug the conenctor) - if you have wired it right, you should be able to do this and still have the right voltages and conenctions to the EDIS to start and run in standalone/limp home mode.

Ensure a *good (nice medium thickness well attached wire) 12v to EDIS pin 8.

The same 12v supply point goes to the common positive on your coil pack

Make sure the coil power and EDIS power remain at a decent voltage while cranking. If your battery/wiring is allowing the supply wire to sag down to low volts (under 9-10), nothings going to work

Check the Coil A, B wires (and C&D if 6 or 8 cyl) are connected ok.

A nice solid negative/ground wire to EDIS pin 9. Make sure it is a proper return-to-battery-negative path and not just a nearby piece of metal body (that might not have a good return circuit to battery neg)

VR sensor wires to Edis 5 & 6. If it sort-of-sparks but wont start, reverse these wires. Shielding can be an issue if you have noise problems later, but it shouldnt stop it from starting unless youve wrapped your VR wires around your HTleads of something silly like that.

If it pops and bangs hard, check your firing order, plug leads and Coil A, B wiring for correct order. Easier to get right with an EDIS 4 since there are less ways to get it wrong.

Get those right, and thats all it needs. The EDIS should fire and purr at at idle easily.

Once its running in standalone mode, *then* you can throw the Megajolt into the picture (plug it back in) and start checking youve got communications, advance curves as you rev it up and so on.

Hope they help,

[NITROPIXIE]

A friend had this before. Some power supplies turn off when cranking to ensure more power goes to the starting equipment. If you have supplied power from a said source then it will be turning off when cranking and obviously wont start.

To check put a light or voltmeter on to your power supply and crank over.

And ensure you do what spockie tech says to ensure good supplies and grounds

Hope this helps