it came with a bunch of extra parts i just bought.
it looks like an SDS type coilpack. 4F i believe.
can this coilpack be used?
Moderators: JeffC, rdoherty, stieg, brentp
can this coilpack be used?
it came with a bunch of extra parts i just bought.
it looks like an SDS type coilpack. 4F i believe.
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NITROPIXIE
- Posts: 704
- Joined: Sun Sep 07, 2008 1:54 pm
- Location: Fareham, GB
I couldn't say to be honest. Try measuring the resistance of the LT (low tension) side and compare it to that of an OE coil pack. If they are similar then I couldn't see why not as long as they are wired correctly.
Finding out the specs of coil packs, I believe, is be pretty difficult, concerning the amount of wire coils on the LT and HT sides. So an educated guess would be the best route here and possibly just have a go, if you have spare EDIS modules to play with.
Finding out the specs of coil packs, I believe, is be pretty difficult, concerning the amount of wire coils on the LT and HT sides. So an educated guess would be the best route here and possibly just have a go, if you have spare EDIS modules to play with.
1310 A-series Mini, lightened and built myself. V4 board and loving it
Rasputin22 - The Mini Forum
Rasputin22 - MK1 Golf Forum
Megajolt repair for the UK available
Rasputin22 - The Mini Forum
Rasputin22 - MK1 Golf Forum
Megajolt repair for the UK available
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Spockie-Tech
- Posts: 152
- Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 12:52 pm
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
External appearance wise, they look exactly the same as the GM/Holden V6 Motor Coilpacks which I have used on about 4 megajolt installations without a problem.
The hardest part is making a mounting plate for them, since they have these odd-sized spade-sockets in the back that the pack sits on, and the plate they come on down here has some odd-ball hybrid circuitry in epoxy potting built into it, which precludes using the factory mounting plate.. (which is only good for a V6 anyway).
Ive found the easiest way to mount them so far is to get a piece of Aluminium plate, drill mounting holes and holes near the spade sockets. Put a smear of vaseline around the coils spade socket (you see why in a min). and mount the coil packs on the plate. hopefully your spade-lug holes line up nicely and you can see them through the plate.
Put (Solder/Crimp) a spade on the end of a length of wre - They're a funny size spade, you can cut the sides of a 6.5mm spade, or go hunting around for the unusual ~5mm correct spades, Poke the Spades into the sockets, leaving a few mm around it, then fill the hole with JB-Weld, or some other high-temp, high-strength, slow-cure, insulative epoxy resin with the wire poking out the back. Leave it to cure. The Vaseline stops the Epoxy from sticking to the coilpack.
24 hours later, you can pull off the coilpacks, connect up the wires to a block connector, and you should have a custom coil mounting plate with the spades all poking up in the right areas..
The hardest part is making a mounting plate for them, since they have these odd-sized spade-sockets in the back that the pack sits on, and the plate they come on down here has some odd-ball hybrid circuitry in epoxy potting built into it, which precludes using the factory mounting plate.. (which is only good for a V6 anyway).
Ive found the easiest way to mount them so far is to get a piece of Aluminium plate, drill mounting holes and holes near the spade sockets. Put a smear of vaseline around the coils spade socket (you see why in a min). and mount the coil packs on the plate. hopefully your spade-lug holes line up nicely and you can see them through the plate.
Put (Solder/Crimp) a spade on the end of a length of wre - They're a funny size spade, you can cut the sides of a 6.5mm spade, or go hunting around for the unusual ~5mm correct spades, Poke the Spades into the sockets, leaving a few mm around it, then fill the hole with JB-Weld, or some other high-temp, high-strength, slow-cure, insulative epoxy resin with the wire poking out the back. Leave it to cure. The Vaseline stops the Epoxy from sticking to the coilpack.
24 hours later, you can pull off the coilpacks, connect up the wires to a block connector, and you should have a custom coil mounting plate with the spades all poking up in the right areas..
thanks for the lead.
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm_coil_ ... acks_1.php
how did you wire yours to MJ?
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm_coil_ ... acks_1.php
how did you wire yours to MJ?
bumping this thread.
I am finally getting some time to resurrect this project.
i am taking off my EDIS coilpack as i think one of the coil banks is not working correctly.
Spockie-Tech - i took the coils of of the base and see what you are talking about.
How do i tell which of the prongs is the power input for the coil and which one is the switched plug signal?
i am going to confirm the primary and secondary resistance tonight.
this is what i can find online for an acceptable range:
* primary: 0.7-1.7 ohms:
* secondary: 15-20 K ohms
I am finally getting some time to resurrect this project.
i am taking off my EDIS coilpack as i think one of the coil banks is not working correctly.
Spockie-Tech - i took the coils of of the base and see what you are talking about.
How do i tell which of the prongs is the power input for the coil and which one is the switched plug signal?
i am going to confirm the primary and secondary resistance tonight.
this is what i can find online for an acceptable range:
* primary: 0.7-1.7 ohms:
* secondary: 15-20 K ohms
to close the loop - yes, they can be used.
i replaced my ford edis coilpack with 2 of these.
to figure out what prong was power, i used the base (with male spades sticking up and no coil packs installed). applied power to each of the plug terminals and used a multimeter to see which was wired to what spade.
fairly easy.
from there, i cut the base apart and epoxied a new plug on it. done and done.
runs fine, but needs tuning.
i replaced my ford edis coilpack with 2 of these.
to figure out what prong was power, i used the base (with male spades sticking up and no coil packs installed). applied power to each of the plug terminals and used a multimeter to see which was wired to what spade.
fairly easy.
from there, i cut the base apart and epoxied a new plug on it. done and done.
runs fine, but needs tuning.