mega jolt revs ascending instead of descending video inside

General Topics for configuring, operating and tuning the Megajolt. Also see the <a href="http://www.autosportlabs.net/MJLJ_V4_Operation_Guide">Operation Guide</a>

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nickg
Posts: 13
Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2010 11:55 am

mega jolt revs ascending instead of descending video inside

Post by nickg »

right i got it working! thank god. faulty edis & sensor did not seem to be sitting right.

I got my mega jolt working but I suspect something is not right or one wire is switched??

one thing is odd and im not sure what is going on, it is showing load & revs from the bottom instead of the top. That highlighted block thatDescending through the advance range?

so instead of descending as normal it's Ascending! the Mj unit is from the website assembled.

be it i start on the dizzy or mega jolt it does the same thing.

maybe the wires are reversed? on the sensor? i'm not sure as this is a wire harness kit i purchased pre made.

when i commit a map nothing seems to really change either.

and it's idling ok around 550 to 600 feels to low on the dizzy it is idling around 800 i just monitored it with the dizzy via the software to see what i going on.

but at least it's working now im happy i got it to work one step closer!

so what do you think ?? im very lost but it all starts on the mega jolt thats for sure.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lBc364XxoLM

Im getting pretty frustrated with it. It's now back to running like it is on 3 cylinders again~! Last time I replaced the Edis that was faulty & the coil pack blew surely I could not have 2 faulty EDis units?

You can hear it run like a lawnmower in the video.

Anyways there is the video. I bought the wire harness pre made.

nickg
Posts: 13
Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2010 11:55 am

Post by nickg »

right the meg jolt is working bloody smooth. impressive!!

another faulty edis unit from ebay.

this time i got one form a wreckers seems to work perfect.

my next question is it is still ascending on the software is this normal? any reason? are my sensor wires reversed?

please check the youtube video & you well see how the green box ascends through the advance range.

nickg
Posts: 13
Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2010 11:55 am

Post by nickg »

if you look closely mines running the opposite way?

what would cause that?

below it runs the correct way i assume?

http://www.youtube.com/v/sUg32C4qRPc?


if i changed the wires around on the sensor on the trigger wheel would that fix it?
help please!

Spockie-Tech
Posts: 152
Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 12:52 pm
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Post by Spockie-Tech »

Its too hard to see whats happening properly in your video sorry.
It looks like your load axis is moving backwards.. but I cant see it clearly enough to be sure.

Back to basics.. disconnect the Megajolt controller altogether (unplug the big plug from the silver box).
Get the car starting and idling nicely with just the EDIS and coilpacks on its own (Limp home mode).

If its still missing and carrying on, you need to check your sensor clearance gap, Power wiring and voltages.

Make sure you have shielded cable connected correctly for the sensor and routed away from the HT leads,
Use Resistor Plugs to reduce electrical noise.

Once you can start the car with just the EDIS on its own, and rev it up a bit without misfires (It will probably rev a little sluggishly due to the fixed 10degrees advance in limp home mode, but it should be smooth with no misfires), *Then* you can connect the Megajolt to get the variable timing control in there, *After* the EDIS install is checked and ok

If it all starts playing up when you connect the MJ, then you know the problem is in the Megajolt MAP table or its configuration options.

Check your vaccum signal works the right way around by sucking on the tube and make sure the load gauge starts at 100 and goes down as you suck harder. Make sure you have a direct manifold source of vacuum and not some port on a carburettor

Maybe uninstall the software, and reinstall it. Make sure the options are set to suit your engine.
Have you been moving the load bins around ?
Download and burn the default map into the MJ see if that helps.

If none of that gets you going, get your camera setup better, or take some screen shots of the various tuning software screens and options and post them and maybe we can spot an error in there somewhere.

brentp
Site Admin
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Post by brentp »

Is this a TPS or MAP setup? If it's TPS make sure it's calibrated properly, the load bins are organized with 0-100% with 0 at the top. With closed throttle the TPS should read at zero.

If it's MAP, make sure you have it on a vacuum port that measures actual manifold vacuum- it should be around 100 KPA with engine 'on' but not running, and at wide open throttle. At idle, it should show some amount of vacuum - 20 to 50 KPA.
Brent Picasso
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nickg
Posts: 13
Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2010 11:55 am

Post by nickg »

it is Map.

it runs fine in limp mode also.

it's running fine was a faulty edis.

i have it connected to the twin su vacum take off, when i start the engine & it is just on idle it is showing load of 100

so when i rev it or drive the car the revs move up **green little Box** & the load is less.

why is it showing that? could it be the way i have the vacume advance just pluged into the side of the twin su's vacum port?

as i said it runs fine with mega jolt or in limp mode smooth and it's MAP

Spockie-Tech
Posts: 152
Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 12:52 pm
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Post by Spockie-Tech »

I dont know what the vacuum port on an SU puts out.

Given that they are vacuum operated slides, the port might be putting out the vacuum drop across the venturi (which I guess operates the slide/needle) or something weird like that, which would explain your backwards load movement. Any SU gurus listening in ?

Try to find a source of direct manifold vacuum.. If you dont want to drill the manifold, you might be able to T into the vacuum line to your brake booster.. The vacuum source has to be from the engine side of the throttle plates. This is what indicates the engine load properly.. Most Carburettor ports usually are not manifold vacuum.

brentp
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Post by brentp »

Looks like we have two threads discussing the same thing. :) Yes, tap directly into the manifold as Spockie-Tech suggests. If you can piggy back off of a power-brake booster port, even better
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nickg
Posts: 13
Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2010 11:55 am

Post by nickg »

thanks brent yes they have turnt into the same thing lol

it has a brake booster port.

i will get a brass valve & tee it off from the mega jolt!

will it be ok to drive the car as is on mega jolt for now until i can T it off? or should i go back to the dizzy?

brentp
Site Admin
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Post by brentp »

Good! So I would run it with the MAP sensor disconnected until you can get that tee fitting in place.
Brent Picasso
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