Mounting

jfeniello · Post by **jfeniello** » Mon Apr 08, 2013 3:22 pm

Are there any requirements or suggestions on mounting the unit? Should it be as close to center of vehicle as possible or doesn't it matter? Does it need to be level? Does it matter which side is facing forward?

Sorry if this info is somewhere, i searched but couldn't find.

thanks,
-jim

ddeltoro · Post by **ddeltoro** » Fri Apr 12, 2013 12:45 am

From what I was told by Brent, the closest to the center of the car (front/back and left/right) the better. It looks like in its default configuration the terminal block should face towards the front of the car and flat.

dimondjack · Post by **dimondjack** » Fri Apr 12, 2013 1:16 am

You want the unit to be as close to the yaw axis (which goes through the center of mass) of the car as possible. The yaw sensor will be the most accurate in this configuration. However, just putting it at the center of the car is probably pretty close for most front engine rear drive cars.

You can find your center of mass by looking at your F/R weight bias. a 50/50 car will have the yaw axis halfway between the wheels, probably slightly closer to the driver. 60/40 cars will have the center of mass closer to the front wheels (4/10's of the distance between the wheels).

Post by **brentp** » Fri Apr 12, 2013 2:52 am

The accelerometer and yaw channels are invertable and the the accelerometer channels can be re-mapped. So long as the RaceCapture/Pro unit is flat (right side up or down) and near the center of the vehicle, you will get good performance from the yaw sensor.

Alex W · Post by **Alex W** » Tue Apr 16, 2013 7:31 pm

So how much difference does having it centered L/R make? In my MR2 I was thinking of mounting in the storage box behind the passenger seat, which would be very near the center of rotation front to rear, but offset to the side by a foot or two.

I was also thinking of mounting it in the center console between the seats, which would be about as close to the yaw axis of the car as is possible, but would require me to trim the mounting brackets (the unit is slightly too wide otherwise) and also make a custom bracket to mount it level. Not a big deal if it would be better, I just don't know if it's worth it.

dimondjack · Post by **dimondjack** » Sun Apr 28, 2013 5:27 pm

While we are talking about mounting, I'd like to talk about which size vibration isolators to get.

I've got a nice flat piece of real estate where my passenger seat used to be, so getting it to fit the right direction isn't a problem. I've dealt with enough electronics to know that we should be using vibration isolators to stand the unit off. What size are the holes/slots in the side of the unit? Should I be getting M6 or M5 vibration isolators?

If this isn't the best idea for mounting, please let me know. I've (almost) always mounted electronics like this and only have had failures when I was lazy and hard mounted them.

Post by **brentp** » Tue May 28, 2013 4:52 pm

If you have any pics of your mounting configuration share them with us! Agree that rubber isolation is a good idea with extra-high vibration environments, like cars with solid motor mounts.