Hi there
Has anyone got any ideas on what I'm doing wrong with the following. I'm an amateur builder who is converting my Locost running Pinto over to a Silvertop 2.0 Zetec.
All has gone well on the build but I am beginning to build the Wiring loom from the ground up and am starting with the ignition. Literally, all the wires I have are feed to Starter Motor (actuated by a wire touched to the Battery terminal. Not even the ignition switch is wired up yet), a live and neutral to the EDIS, SAW and PIP to the MJ (Although not plugged in as testing in Limp Home to ensure everything is working), wires from EDIS to the Standard Ford position sensor and feed and other 2 wires to the standard Ford coil pack. When I say it's as basic as it can be, it really is. I haven't shielded the wires yet but that shouldn't affect anything as yet. The MJ and 2nd hand EDIS were bought from Trigger Wheels.
So, everything is K.I.S.S. but when I turned over the engine, there was no spark whatsoever. I tested the standard trigger sensor and it's returning results on the Multimeter bang in the middle of expected ranges. I'm not running a 36 tooth trigger wheel but using the standard sensor position which should work perfectly. I've checked all wires and even chucked on a new coil pack. There is 12v direct to the centre coil (pin 2) position and a minimal voltage going to pins 1 and 3 when the engine is being turned over on the starter motor. However, I only have a Multimeter and cannot distinguish whether this is an oscillating or constant voltage.
Gut instinct is that there is some sort of a failure within the EDIS unit. Is this likely? The only other thing I can think of is that the Sensor is generating a constant signal without oscillating by failing to trigger a signal at the correct position on the flywheel.
Has anyone come across this before or can anyone suggest is I'm doing something stupid (most likely).
Edis initial setup failure.
Moderators: JeffC, rdoherty, stieg, brentp
Hi,
A common problem with 'no spark' situation is reversed leads on the VR sensor. try flipping the VR sensor connections and see if that works for you.
Also, the voltage verification steps can help as well:
http://autosportlabs.net/MJLJ_V4_vehicl ... tion_Steps
Let us know what you find out!
A common problem with 'no spark' situation is reversed leads on the VR sensor. try flipping the VR sensor connections and see if that works for you.
Also, the voltage verification steps can help as well:
http://autosportlabs.net/MJLJ_V4_vehicl ... tion_Steps
Let us know what you find out!
Hi Brentp
Just realised I forgot to post the update.
Eventually found the problems.
First I reversed the wires as you suggested but no luck so put them back and re-checked everything else.
Eventually I decided on changing the EDIS as couldn't find anything else but still no luck.
Back to basics and at the back of my mind is the recurring builders nemesis of dodgy earths so although everything looked OK, ran a separate earth strap to the head/block as well as the existing one to the block/bell housing.
No joy so started going through everything again and switched the leads. BINGO!
So, combination of a slightly weak earth and reversed leads which shouldn't make a difference in the first place
Joy.
Just realised I forgot to post the update.
Eventually found the problems.
First I reversed the wires as you suggested but no luck so put them back and re-checked everything else.
Eventually I decided on changing the EDIS as couldn't find anything else but still no luck.
Back to basics and at the back of my mind is the recurring builders nemesis of dodgy earths so although everything looked OK, ran a separate earth strap to the head/block as well as the existing one to the block/bell housing.
No joy so started going through everything again and switched the leads. BINGO!
So, combination of a slightly weak earth and reversed leads which shouldn't make a difference in the first place
Joy.