Trigger wheel on a toyota 22R

[bkubisht]

I'm trying to figure out the best spot to put my trigger wheel, I don't see evidence MJLJ has been used on a toyota 22R motor. Looking at the other examples here I have a lot more belts and complexity going on.

The best option seems to be on the front, as pictured. Pros: Won't lose timing if the rubber in the harmonic balancer goes bad. The front pulley is detachable from the rest if the harmonic balancer goes bad. Can use the stock 1/4" trigger wheel. Cons: Replacement of any belt will require removing the sensor bracket. If sensor bracket is accessible from underneath then any of the 3 belts could wipe out the bracket if they break. If sensor bracket is put where the clamp is only the A/C belt could destroy it, but removing it would be tough when doing belts.

The backup idea is to put a 1/8" thick trigger wheel on the back side of the crank pulley. It would be TIGHT, I would have to file the head of a bolt or two on the oil pump to make 1/8" clear. Pros: sensor and bracket would be out of the way of all belts. Cons: Sensor would be less than 2" from the alternator. I would have to order up a new trigger wheel (ebay). Half the switching surface seen by the the sensor.

Due to space constraints both options involve having the trigger wheel directly against a pulley of same diameter instead of spaced out like others here. Should either (or both?) of these options be thrown out immediately? Any other bright ideas?

[NITROPIXIE]

Whats happening on the flywheel side of things?? Is it possible to use this and mount a crank sensor in the gearbox??

Does it have a crank sensor already?? (sorry not familiar with the engine) so you fill and redrill the timing holes???

[bkubisht]

Nitro, thanks for replying.

Inside the bellhousing is possible in theory but dropping the tranny to access to the sensor for maintenance/troubleshooting is a big turnoff, and coming up with a square-wave tooth pattern on the iron flywheel would mean massive machining on such a big diameter. Inside the gearbox wouldn't work, as disengaging the clutch decouples the spinning of the engine from the spinning of the tranny.

It's a classic carb & vaccuum advance with electronic ignition, no OE or aftermarket crank sensor setups were ever made for the 22R.

For now I'm going to take the easiest but least favorite approach of attaching to the front of all the crank pulleys, with very accessible VR sensor underneath, and run it this way in the near term carrying a spare bracket & sensor in case a belt lets go. While the motor is out I might also build and store away a bracket to hold the sensor at the back of the pulleys if I decide to go that route later, that would be insane to mock up in the truck.

Another option that occurred to me is to buy an underdrive pulley from LC Engineering which would give more space at the back of the crank pulley, but it's $132 and I am more about being clever than throwing money at problems.

Ultimately a 72-2 setup in the distributor is what this motor needs, but space is SO tight. I have 2 7/8" diameter area to work with inside the distributor, and that has to include fitting a VR sensor in there somehow too. So possible a 2" diameter wheel, which would mean teeth 0.087 wide. I doubt any sensor would trigger on that!?! Maybe cutting up a distributor and build a custom larger enclosure on it.

[NITROPIXIE]

It isn't too difficult and you would only have to drill holes into the flywheel, no big maching required really. The spacing doesn't have to be 1 to 1 as its falling edge triggered so long as they are accurately 10 degs apart. Plus you would only need to mount the trigger through the gearbox housing but which would require a hole (hmm, maybe some strengthening required). Just food for thought.

Anyway, I believe it would be better if the sensor was closer to the block, as the shorter the length of the VR mount the less likely it is to vibrate and cause problems. The VR sensors are very reliable and would need less maintenance than the belts, etc so would be fine tucked away somewhere.

72-2 would be an option but the expense of that triggerwheel would probably be as much as the 132 dollsars of the under drive pulley. You could space out the crankshaft pulley but then obviously you would have to space every other pulley equally.

On my mini pulleys i welded the harmonic pulley solid so it could no longer move and then had an engineer drill holes (6mm i believe but would go a bit bigger next time, like 8-9mm, iirc) in it accurately and it worked a treat. Like i said before the holes don't have to be a spacing of 1 to 1 just an accurate distance apart.

Hope this helps some more.

[chip369]

Sorry to drag up old threads, but I'm currently building a 22r and was planning on running EDIS, any updates or advice?

[bkubisht]

I ended up abandoning the project, sold all my megajolt / edis stuff. Instead I decided to move the power steering pump to resolve the clearance problem I was having with the distributor. A month ago I tore things apart again for megasquirt + TBI.

However, I did up acquiring an underdrive pulley secondhand that LC makes. It was about .060" smaller diameter than the inner diameter of the trigger wheel shown. If you MUST go EDIS, I would say that's the way to do it on a 22R. Use shims to get it centered up just right, then either tig weld it into place or inject rtv into the slot between them all the way around.

Here's some pics of it mocked up, complete with VR sensor mount.

[bkubisht]

Forgot to mention, if you can keep the distributor then a 72-2 wheel INSIDE the 22R distributor is totally doable too. Here is the gear stock source https://sdp-si.com/eStore/ .

72-tooth gear options are part numbers S1084Z-048S072 and S1086Z-064S072, and the best one seemed to be S10C6Z-048H072 .

But seriously if you just want to customize your ignition timing curve but don't need to delete the distributor on a 22R, I'd say skip edis and go megasquirt (spark only, or spark + fuel).

[chip369]

Hi, thanks for the reply.
The reason I was going DIS was because in the past the motor would die, just at the sight of water, it was as if the dizzy liked to absorb any moisture it could find and the current wouldn't jump the gap between the rotor and cap.
I'm looking at the easiest and cheapest solution to go DIS.
The megasquirt has too many features and too many choices for what I need, and I would still need to install a trigger wheel regardless.
Also although the MS sequencer looks like what I need the ignition timing is fixed (also I don't see it for sale) and the more expensive MS3 is, well, twice the price of the MJLJ

[bkubisht]

That's not so normal for a 22R to have problems with just a little water. Perhaps you have bad plug wires, or need to replace the O-rings on the distributor. Run it in the dark and spray a mist of water with a spray bottle and see if you can find the problem.

You're not really simplifying (and therefore waterproofing?) the system by going distributorless. You'll have eliminated one secondary wire (the coil wire) and just changed a lot of stuff. Best advice I can give is resolve your problem more directly. Takes is a TON of work and inventing to get this setup onto a 22R.

[chip369]

Yeah, I know it was probably the Oring on the dizzy, but this sort of eliminates it from happening in future and also it's something different, there is literally nothing left stock in this motor, I've spent way too much money on it, but all for my own reasons, and an EDIS setup is rather inexpensive, even if labour intensive.