OK, so I'm new here, Hello!
I'm looking into installing this system in a 1972 VW Camper Van that has a Type 4 Engine. So far things look pritty good, although I'm only researching at the moment. A few Questions to get me going though...
How much clearence does the timing wheel need from the pully I'm planning to mount it on? I've got an 8" Fan on the end of the crankshaft and am hoping I can mount an 8.25" timing wheel (well ring really) directly on it.
Seems like MAP sensing is the way to go, but do I need to drill all 4 intake manifolds and send them to an accumulator, or can I just drill one and use a 0.8mm balacing jet. I also need to find a vacuum source for the bake servo. Could I combine the two?
Where does the laptop connect to the system?
Could the EDIS be incorperated into the Megajolt box (or a slightly more weatherproof one) and the whole system be placed in the engine bay
Thanks for your help, I'm sure this is going to be a long way from my last post!
MAP accumulator and Trigger Wheel clearence
Moderators: JeffC, rdoherty, stieg, brentp
I'd just bolt or weld it
I'd just bolt or weld it on
as long as you can point your VR sensor at the teeth and not any ferrous metal either side of them all should be OK.
are you running the orginal Type 4 manifold? (plumb vac line into side of central plenum
or do you have webers/dellortos
few methods of attack if it won't work with none ported vac from 1 cylinder
1) run vaccum tubes from two cylinders (left or right manifold) to a vaccum can (the can acts as a plenum to smooth the pulses out a bit) and a line from that to the MAP. a Fuel injection surge tank may do the biz but is a bit big
2) Find an Alfa Romeo sud or 33TI 197?-1986 or similar with flat 4 boxer engine. it has a small vaccum smoothing widget in the vac line to the dissy that allows you to run a vac advance with twin webers or dellortos when you only take vacumm from 1 cylinder. Most alfa's of this vintage have them as they all had Webers dells or solexs in that IDF IDA DRLA configuration. Pick one up at the junk/Breakers/wrecking yard (where are you?choose appropriate term) and put it in ya pocket.
(infact the whole electronic ignition and dissy fits type 1 and 4 if you machine a 8mm brass spacer to fit under the alfa dissy, but we won't go into that here)
3) TPS
PS i used to have a splitty
David G
UK
VH Valiant charger 265 CID 6 cyl
as long as you can point your VR sensor at the teeth and not any ferrous metal either side of them all should be OK.
are you running the orginal Type 4 manifold? (plumb vac line into side of central plenum
or do you have webers/dellortos
few methods of attack if it won't work with none ported vac from 1 cylinder
1) run vaccum tubes from two cylinders (left or right manifold) to a vaccum can (the can acts as a plenum to smooth the pulses out a bit) and a line from that to the MAP. a Fuel injection surge tank may do the biz but is a bit big
2) Find an Alfa Romeo sud or 33TI 197?-1986 or similar with flat 4 boxer engine. it has a small vaccum smoothing widget in the vac line to the dissy that allows you to run a vac advance with twin webers or dellortos when you only take vacumm from 1 cylinder. Most alfa's of this vintage have them as they all had Webers dells or solexs in that IDF IDA DRLA configuration. Pick one up at the junk/Breakers/wrecking yard (where are you?choose appropriate term) and put it in ya pocket.
(infact the whole electronic ignition and dissy fits type 1 and 4 if you machine a 8mm brass spacer to fit under the alfa dissy, but we won't go into that here)
3) TPS
PS i used to have a splitty
David G
UK
VH Valiant charger 265 CID 6 cyl
David G
UK
VH Valiant charger 265 CID 6 cyl
UK
VH Valiant charger 265 CID 6 cyl
Hello! Presuming your pulley
Hello!
Presuming your pulley is steel, your safest option is to have the diameter of the timing wheel sufficiently larger than the pulley so the bottom of the teeth are flush or clear with edge of the pulley.
The MJLJ was not designed to operate in the engine compartment, even if it was in a sealed box. A minimal installation requires only four wires, so it should be easy to install under the dash. What are your particular concerns?
Regards,
Presuming your pulley is steel, your safest option is to have the diameter of the timing wheel sufficiently larger than the pulley so the bottom of the teeth are flush or clear with edge of the pulley.
The MJLJ was not designed to operate in the engine compartment, even if it was in a sealed box. A minimal installation requires only four wires, so it should be easy to install under the dash. What are your particular concerns?
Regards,
Well, as it's a camper van
Well, as it's a camper van the dash is a good 12 feet from the engine bay, why would I need to split the mechanism let alone a vacuum tube over such a long distance? and why should the ECU be in the dash?
I do have a set of Dells (36 DRLA's) I'm about to put in that came with an anti surge valve I was hoping I could use for the MAP on the megajolt
and as for the trigger wheel... I'm guessing the pully it will be welded too is probably only 1/4" smaller, do I need to space it and if so how far?
Thanks for the quick responses and a lovely welcome to the forum,
H.
I do have a set of Dells (36 DRLA's) I'm about to put in that came with an anti surge valve I was hoping I could use for the MAP on the megajolt
and as for the trigger wheel... I'm guessing the pully it will be welded too is probably only 1/4" smaller, do I need to space it and if so how far?
Thanks for the quick responses and a lovely welcome to the forum,
H.
Right.. VW camper van.
Right.. VW camper van. 
Can you still install it in the passenger compartment? Didn't the L-Jetronic versions of the aircooled beetles have the ECU on the other side of the firewall?
Brent
Can you still install it in the passenger compartment? Didn't the L-Jetronic versions of the aircooled beetles have the ECU on the other side of the firewall?
Brent
I suggested vac from more
I suggested vac from more than 1 cylinder because the lower the number of cylinders the more pulsing you get. ideally the vaccumn shouldbe as steady as possible. however as we are not working on specific pressure values and just need a range across your own specific rev range you may get away with vaccummn from fewer than the full 4
There must be a space under the rear seats or bed that is far enough away from everything to not get hit when you store your camping stuff. I'd be inclned to put in a new fused feed direct ffrom the battery (fuse it in the engine compartment before it goes through a grommet into the van)
bolt in generic distribution box with fuses as well to give you two 12 volt feeds and a good strap to earth (self tapper with wavy washer copper braid earth strap tied into distribution box) so you can earth MJ EDIS and the sheath for the VR detector and signal lines all at the same spot.
PS any van after 1973 had a diagnostic port in the engine bay the loom for this is big and fat you may be able to get your pipes and wires through the grommet it uses.
David G
UK
VH Valiant charger 265 CID 6 cyl
There must be a space under the rear seats or bed that is far enough away from everything to not get hit when you store your camping stuff. I'd be inclned to put in a new fused feed direct ffrom the battery (fuse it in the engine compartment before it goes through a grommet into the van)
bolt in generic distribution box with fuses as well to give you two 12 volt feeds and a good strap to earth (self tapper with wavy washer copper braid earth strap tied into distribution box) so you can earth MJ EDIS and the sheath for the VR detector and signal lines all at the same spot.
PS any van after 1973 had a diagnostic port in the engine bay the loom for this is big and fat you may be able to get your pipes and wires through the grommet it uses.
David G
UK
VH Valiant charger 265 CID 6 cyl
David G
UK
VH Valiant charger 265 CID 6 cyl
UK
VH Valiant charger 265 CID 6 cyl
Ace, Thanks for the input
Ace, Thanks for the input and quick responces! I'm looking into ways of taking MAP and servo from all 4 provided there are no disadvantages in allowing the manifolds to breath into one another.
All I need to know now is...
Where does the Laptop connect? (I'm sure I'm just being dim with that one)
Why is the ECU kept away from the engine?
And How much clearence/spacing would the timing wheel need laterally from the pully I'm mounting it on if I can only find one of simular size?
All I need to know now is...
Where does the Laptop connect? (I'm sure I'm just being dim with that one)
Why is the ECU kept away from the engine?
And How much clearence/spacing would the timing wheel need laterally from the pully I'm mounting it on if I can only find one of simular size?
Glad to help! The laptop
Glad to help!
The laptop connects via a 9-pin serial port on the back of the MJLJ unit. Your laptop will need either a serial port, or you will need to use a USB->Serial adapter.
As far as mounting in the engine compartment: To make the project approachable (and affordable) to the average DIY enthusiast, it was simply not designed for that kind of harsh environment, when it comes to temperature, water and vibration extremes.
If you absolutely insist, you can be the one that lets us know how well and how long it would last under those conditions.
The laptop connects via a 9-pin serial port on the back of the MJLJ unit. Your laptop will need either a serial port, or you will need to use a USB->Serial adapter.
As far as mounting in the engine compartment: To make the project approachable (and affordable) to the average DIY enthusiast, it was simply not designed for that kind of harsh environment, when it comes to temperature, water and vibration extremes.
If you absolutely insist, you can be the one that lets us know how well and how long it would last under those conditions.
Ahhh, got ya! Thanks
Ahhh, got ya! Thanks brentp
I may be brave and mount the entire unit in an airtight and suitably foam protected box (maybe something like a mini pelican case)http://www.pelican.com/cases_detail.php?Case=1010 We use these to protect very expensive and delicate electronics when working in harsh enviroments in my job on a day to day basis, however all connections would need to be via a suitable bulkhead connection. For some reason (maybe 12' of vacuum tube and loom this is my idea of keeping it simple! lol)
The Serial port cable could of course be extended into the cab or as you sugested into a descrete cupbord for ease of access.
The disadvantage of having a camper is sitting miles from the engine, however the advantage is that the engine bay is somewhat less extreme than in many cars, although I'd be very happy to be corrected if I've overlooked something, heat maybe?
I've seen Boost supply a trigger wheel for air cooled engines... unfortunatly it's for a Type 1 and it not cheep, however the trigger wheel is flush to the pronounced flange of the pully wheel it's mounted on, I'm assuming this works, hence it's existance!
Right, gonna mount my carbs with the existing ignition and develop this lot in my spare time (as I have so much of it! lol)
Thanks All,
Henry
I may be brave and mount the entire unit in an airtight and suitably foam protected box (maybe something like a mini pelican case)http://www.pelican.com/cases_detail.php?Case=1010 We use these to protect very expensive and delicate electronics when working in harsh enviroments in my job on a day to day basis, however all connections would need to be via a suitable bulkhead connection. For some reason (maybe 12' of vacuum tube and loom this is my idea of keeping it simple! lol)
The Serial port cable could of course be extended into the cab or as you sugested into a descrete cupbord for ease of access.
The disadvantage of having a camper is sitting miles from the engine, however the advantage is that the engine bay is somewhat less extreme than in many cars, although I'd be very happy to be corrected if I've overlooked something, heat maybe?
I've seen Boost supply a trigger wheel for air cooled engines... unfortunatly it's for a Type 1 and it not cheep, however the trigger wheel is flush to the pronounced flange of the pully wheel it's mounted on, I'm assuming this works, hence it's existance!
Right, gonna mount my carbs with the existing ignition and develop this lot in my spare time (as I have so much of it! lol)
Thanks All,
Henry
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piledriver
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Thu Apr 29, 2004 5:58 am
The fan assy (except for the
The fan assy (except for the outer v-belt pulley) on a T4 is aluminum, so it won't interfere with the sensor/wheel.
This has been done sucessfully several times, there is plenty of room on the backside of the fan housing, and if you are handy, a sensor mounting bracket could be made to "drop in" from the top, as there is a flat spot adjacent to the breather tower in just the right place, ~5/8" wide.
Logically you should put any electronics under the back seat as even VW eventually learned.
(I have run Bay windows for 20+years, and have a 914 and `78 Bay, and a Vanagon right now in my yard)
This has been done sucessfully several times, there is plenty of room on the backside of the fan housing, and if you are handy, a sensor mounting bracket could be made to "drop in" from the top, as there is a flat spot adjacent to the breather tower in just the right place, ~5/8" wide.
Logically you should put any electronics under the back seat as even VW eventually learned.
(I have run Bay windows for 20+years, and have a 914 and `78 Bay, and a Vanagon right now in my yard)
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capri_turbo
- Posts: 122
- Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2006 8:17 pm
- Location: North Yorkshire, UK
Trigger wheel clearance
My trigger wheel is only 2mm bigger than my pulley all round and doesn't cause me any problems, and the pulley is cast iron... all I can think that'll happen is that a small dc offset will occur in the signal...
What I can say for definate is that it works fine for me.
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What I can say for definate is that it works fine for me.
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Hi VW, you made it over here from volkszone then!
Regarding the advice about vibrations brent - We've been running ours on rubber mountings inside a sealed battery box and it seems fine so far. Touch wood!
Bearing in mind this is an off-roader with the engine solid mounted...
Although it hasn't been in competition yet, just testing.
Bearing in mind this is an off-roader with the engine solid mounted...
Although it hasn't been in competition yet, just testing.
Hi Piledriver
I hadn't considered putting the trigger wheel on the back of the fan assy, Top advice! However do you mean inside the housing or spaced so it's ontside between the fan housing and the engine?
Just taken the fan off and without removing the fan housing it's hard to see how much space there is with the fan mounted.
Do you know who else has done this, and any chance of getting in touch with them for photos? Or even to get the same engineer to mount and balance my trigger Wheel.
Thanks
PS I'm jelous of both your collection of cars and the space you have to keep them in! Good Work.
Just taken the fan off and without removing the fan housing it's hard to see how much space there is with the fan mounted.
Do you know who else has done this, and any chance of getting in touch with them for photos? Or even to get the same engineer to mount and balance my trigger Wheel.
Thanks
PS I'm jelous of both your collection of cars and the space you have to keep them in! Good Work.