I am using the EDIS on a toyota 1.6L 16 valve. I understand the open tooth should be at the sensor when the engine is 90degrees BTDC If that is coorect. I can place the ring with the open tooth at 180 degrees to the timing "V" on thre front pully. This way I can place the pickup on the left side of the engine.
Framis
Position of timing wheel
Moderators: JeffC, rdoherty, stieg, brentp
Left, yes.
Framis,
Assuming that the "V" is at the top (i.e. 12 o'clock), the VR sensor at the bottom (i.e. 6 o'clock) and that your engine turns in a clockwise direction, then when the engine is at TDC the gap should be to the left, yes, at 9 o'clock.
Another way of looking at it is that the gap passes the sensor 90 degrees before the engine reaches TDC.
Where you put the sensor does not matter. It does not need to be at 180 degrees to the "V". Put it wherever is most convenient and align the gap appropriately.
I hope this helps.
Good luck.
Robert.
Assuming that the "V" is at the top (i.e. 12 o'clock), the VR sensor at the bottom (i.e. 6 o'clock) and that your engine turns in a clockwise direction, then when the engine is at TDC the gap should be to the left, yes, at 9 o'clock.
Another way of looking at it is that the gap passes the sensor 90 degrees before the engine reaches TDC.
Where you put the sensor does not matter. It does not need to be at 180 degrees to the "V". Put it wherever is most convenient and align the gap appropriately.
I hope this helps.
Good luck.
Robert.
Position of Timing wheel
Robert, Thanks. I was not certain about the position of the gap in relation to the TDC of the engine. I intend to place the sensor on the left side of the engine about 90 degrees from the TDC marking. This will actually make the gap on the timing wheel at 180 degrees to the TDC mark on the front pully. With the sensor mounted at about 90 degrees on the left, this will make it work. How close should the sensor be to the wheel?
I also intend to make the mount for the sensor slotted in an arc to allow for timing adjustments of about 1 1/2 tooth each side. Does the flat on the front of the sensor align flat to the edge of the timing wheel? I appreciate your help. Framis
I also intend to make the mount for the sensor slotted in an arc to allow for timing adjustments of about 1 1/2 tooth each side. Does the flat on the front of the sensor align flat to the edge of the timing wheel? I appreciate your help. Framis
Here's a picture
Framis,
Here's a picture I from my <a href="http://mjlj.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/">web page<a> which I did to convince myself about this:
<img src="http://mjlj.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.u ... gnment.gif">
I'm assuming that you are fastening the wheel onto the front of the engine and that you are looking at the engine from the front.
I'm not sure from what you say that you have got it right - unless your timing marks are at the bottom or you are looking at the engine from the back. In my diagram, assume that the engine is at TDC and you're looking from the front. The engine turns in the direction of the big red arrow. The gap should be where it is shown.
The gap passes the sensor as the engine turns and warns the EDIS that in 90 degrees time TDC will happen. In the diagram, this has already happened, 90 degrees ago.
Does that clear the mud a little? This seems to be an ongoing problem to explain.
I don't set myself up as any sort of world expert on this topic, by the way. I've only just got my engine running on MJLJ yesterday but I have trawled the forums for a while now and am glad to offer any help if I can.
Adjustable mounts seem to be favoured by some in case the alignment of the timing wheel isn't perfect. However provided that the alignment is close to perfect, you can allow for errors in the advance tables which you use.
As I understand it, the sensor's flat end should align with the wheel as closely as possible. Centre of sensor at centre of wheel edge and the sensor as a whole as close as possible to being at a perfect tangent to the circumference of the wheel as possible (if I remember my trig properly). I think the gap should be no more than 1mm. Basically as close as possible without touching.
I hope this helps. Good luck. It's fabulous when it all works.
P.S. You probably have done, but note that every tooth on the wheel is 10 degrees, so the gap should be 9 teeth from the sensor. It's an easy way of working it out.
Here's a picture I from my <a href="http://mjlj.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/">web page<a> which I did to convince myself about this:
<img src="http://mjlj.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.u ... gnment.gif">
I'm assuming that you are fastening the wheel onto the front of the engine and that you are looking at the engine from the front.
I'm not sure from what you say that you have got it right - unless your timing marks are at the bottom or you are looking at the engine from the back. In my diagram, assume that the engine is at TDC and you're looking from the front. The engine turns in the direction of the big red arrow. The gap should be where it is shown.
The gap passes the sensor as the engine turns and warns the EDIS that in 90 degrees time TDC will happen. In the diagram, this has already happened, 90 degrees ago.
Does that clear the mud a little? This seems to be an ongoing problem to explain.
I don't set myself up as any sort of world expert on this topic, by the way. I've only just got my engine running on MJLJ yesterday but I have trawled the forums for a while now and am glad to offer any help if I can.
Adjustable mounts seem to be favoured by some in case the alignment of the timing wheel isn't perfect. However provided that the alignment is close to perfect, you can allow for errors in the advance tables which you use.
As I understand it, the sensor's flat end should align with the wheel as closely as possible. Centre of sensor at centre of wheel edge and the sensor as a whole as close as possible to being at a perfect tangent to the circumference of the wheel as possible (if I remember my trig properly). I think the gap should be no more than 1mm. Basically as close as possible without touching.
I hope this helps. Good luck. It's fabulous when it all works.
P.S. You probably have done, but note that every tooth on the wheel is 10 degrees, so the gap should be 9 teeth from the sensor. It's an easy way of working it out.
Iam about to mount the
Iam about to mount the trigger wheel to my pulley, the question is where on the missing tooth should TDC actualy be, at the start of the gap the middle or the end.??
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david jenkins
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Bang in the centre of the
Bang in the centre of the gap worked for me - I got exactly 10 degrees BTDC timing running on the EDIS alone with this setting.
David
P.S. That's a really useful picture on wheel/sensor alignment - perhaps Brent could store it on this site, as a reference. It would have saved me a heap of head-scratching a month or so ago!
David
P.S. That's a really useful picture on wheel/sensor alignment - perhaps Brent could store it on this site, as a reference. It would have saved me a heap of head-scratching a month or so ago!