Hi There,
I am in Australia and I have 1999 Ford Falcon fitted with an aftermarket turbo. I have done 30,000 k's on the stock ECU, but realise that its not ideal. I use LPG so the only ECU parameter I need to adjust is the timing.
I need to do something with the timing and was told that Megajolt was a cost effective way of doing this.
Can someone tell me what EDIS6 is? and what do I need to make Megajolt work in/on my car?
Thanks,
PLease help me to understand Megajolt and EDIS6
Moderators: JeffC, rdoherty, stieg, brentp
PLease help me to understand Megajolt and EDIS6
Turbo and LPG in a 1999 Ford Falcon ex Taxi.
4 Litre in line 6 with 650hp KKK turbo and Front mount intercooler.
4 Litre in line 6 with 650hp KKK turbo and Front mount intercooler.
EDIS6 is the Ford 6 cylinder
EDIS6 is the Ford 6 cylinder wasted spark system shown in good detail at http://picasso.org/mjlj/?q=node/2
(I assume your car is 6 cylinder, but I know nothing about Falcons - we don't have them in the UK!)
Assuming the Falcon is not EDIS-based already (in which case it's *simply* (!) a matter of putting a Megajolt in place of the EEC-IV), then you will need to supply and fit:
- a VR sensor and mounting bracket
- a 36-1 trigger wheel
- a Megajolt unit
- an EDIS6 module
- a 6 cylinder wasted spark coil
- a wiring harness and plug leads
- optionally a Manifold Air Pressure or Throttle Position Sensor (one or the other, but both optional - ie not both!)
...and wire it as in the diagram shown at http://www.megasquirt.info/ms2/EDIS.htm
Any more questions - just ask!
(I assume your car is 6 cylinder, but I know nothing about Falcons - we don't have them in the UK!)
Assuming the Falcon is not EDIS-based already (in which case it's *simply* (!) a matter of putting a Megajolt in place of the EEC-IV), then you will need to supply and fit:
- a VR sensor and mounting bracket
- a 36-1 trigger wheel
- a Megajolt unit
- an EDIS6 module
- a 6 cylinder wasted spark coil
- a wiring harness and plug leads
- optionally a Manifold Air Pressure or Throttle Position Sensor (one or the other, but both optional - ie not both!)
...and wire it as in the diagram shown at http://www.megasquirt.info/ms2/EDIS.htm
Any more questions - just ask!
I-6 with variable cam timing
I assume you have I-6 and VCT, 4 valve engine. You're going to have ECC-V and 36-1 trigger wheel and VRS installed. EDIS-6 operates by sending a reference voltage to VRS sensor and reading it. ECC-V operates the same way. This is a problem that would have to be solved on your car. There are two solutions, a) install a secondary 36-1 trigger wheel and VRS sensor, or b) find a way to share the sensor you already have.
I'll make a separate thread asking about B for you. Meanwhile, make sure that you have the VRS sensor and 36-1 trigger wheel installed on your Ford. All Fords in U.S. have it, but you're down under, and you have an engine I haven't heard about. Find Ford Falcon forums and ask questions. Make sure you have that 36-1 trigger wheel.
EDIS-6 works by reading crank position sensor (VRS), you'll have VRS connected to EDIS-6, EDIS-6 connected to coil packs, and Megajolt connected to EDIS-6 and telling it how much to advance and how much to retard. That's your ignition system. Megajolt is the brains, EDIS-6 is the distributor.
Assuming you have 36-1 tooth gear and VRS installed, and you know how to share the signal off that sensor, you will need the following:
EDIS-6 + wiring harness
6-Cyl coil pack
Megajolt Lite Jr unit with MAP sensor setup
1x tees connector #44555K137 or compatible
2x coupler connector #44555K119 or compatible
vacuum lines
wires
Universal fit ignition wire set
A set of old wires off ford car or truck with coil pack setup
.170" coupler, one for Megajolt box, one for the firewall
<img src="http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/112/gfx ... gif"></img>
.170" tee, you siplice for vacuum between fuel pressure regulator and manifold
<img src="http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/112/gfx ... gif"></img>
EDIS-6 can be installed inside engine compartment where it's dry. Megajolt goes underneath your dash. EDIS-6 will work without Megajolt, but will only provide a constant 10 degrees timing, so you can test if EDIS-6 will work on your vehicle without buying the Megajolt.
Currently you have what is called coil on plug (COP) ignition setup. Each cylinder has a coil sitting on top of plug. EDIS-6 is not ready for that, it can work with COP but it requires some monkying around. I suggest you use a coil pack instead (and wires), at least for now. Later on, you can get COP working, otherwise you'll be the first one to do it.
EDIS-6 can come off junk yard, I bet you have those in Australia. For coil pack I suggest a brand new unit, but you still can test with a junk yard coil pack, just don't spend too much money on it. Invest in new wires for your wiring, reusing old wires is dangerous, they might be oxidated and cause you problems which are often hard to diagnose. For universal set ignition wires go with ACCEL or whatever is popular down under. You need old wires because you want boots and leds that go to coil pack from them, you use those boots with your new wires and make a one bad ass looking wire. Length of your wires should be enough to route from coil pack to destination. Coil packs are usually installed on the engine with a mounting bracket (found in abundance on some junkyards).
Reused LED off old wire (goes inside coil pack), crimped onto the new wire.
<img src="http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/3362 ... jpg"></img>
Rubber boot (coil side) that came with new wire, goes ontop of the led.
<img src="http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/3362 ... jpg"></img>
You recover plastic boot and copper led from old wires.
<img src="http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/3362 ... jpg"></img>
The plastic boot goes ontop of rubber boot.
<img src="http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/3362 ... jpg"></img>
Wires used on this V8 were ACCEL Super Stock 8mm 5040R. To avoid making a custom wire use stock wires, or buy aftermarket set that fits the coil pack, or avoid wires and coil packs altogether by making COP work. When making these wires use plenty of lubricant and avoid pulling wires, silicone electric grease is perfect.
<img src="http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/3362 ... jpg"></img>
That's all you need. I'm going to ask now about sharing the VRS signal. Which is the only problem you're facing, other than that install is easy for you.
*** EDIT: You're good to go with reusing that VRS sensor. Make sure positive that supplies ECM also supplies positive on EDIS.
I'll make a separate thread asking about B for you. Meanwhile, make sure that you have the VRS sensor and 36-1 trigger wheel installed on your Ford. All Fords in U.S. have it, but you're down under, and you have an engine I haven't heard about. Find Ford Falcon forums and ask questions. Make sure you have that 36-1 trigger wheel.
EDIS-6 works by reading crank position sensor (VRS), you'll have VRS connected to EDIS-6, EDIS-6 connected to coil packs, and Megajolt connected to EDIS-6 and telling it how much to advance and how much to retard. That's your ignition system. Megajolt is the brains, EDIS-6 is the distributor.
Assuming you have 36-1 tooth gear and VRS installed, and you know how to share the signal off that sensor, you will need the following:
EDIS-6 + wiring harness
6-Cyl coil pack
Megajolt Lite Jr unit with MAP sensor setup
1x tees connector #44555K137 or compatible
2x coupler connector #44555K119 or compatible
vacuum lines
wires
Universal fit ignition wire set
A set of old wires off ford car or truck with coil pack setup
.170" coupler, one for Megajolt box, one for the firewall
<img src="http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/112/gfx ... gif"></img>
.170" tee, you siplice for vacuum between fuel pressure regulator and manifold
<img src="http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/112/gfx ... gif"></img>
EDIS-6 can be installed inside engine compartment where it's dry. Megajolt goes underneath your dash. EDIS-6 will work without Megajolt, but will only provide a constant 10 degrees timing, so you can test if EDIS-6 will work on your vehicle without buying the Megajolt.
Currently you have what is called coil on plug (COP) ignition setup. Each cylinder has a coil sitting on top of plug. EDIS-6 is not ready for that, it can work with COP but it requires some monkying around. I suggest you use a coil pack instead (and wires), at least for now. Later on, you can get COP working, otherwise you'll be the first one to do it.
EDIS-6 can come off junk yard, I bet you have those in Australia. For coil pack I suggest a brand new unit, but you still can test with a junk yard coil pack, just don't spend too much money on it. Invest in new wires for your wiring, reusing old wires is dangerous, they might be oxidated and cause you problems which are often hard to diagnose. For universal set ignition wires go with ACCEL or whatever is popular down under. You need old wires because you want boots and leds that go to coil pack from them, you use those boots with your new wires and make a one bad ass looking wire. Length of your wires should be enough to route from coil pack to destination. Coil packs are usually installed on the engine with a mounting bracket (found in abundance on some junkyards).
Reused LED off old wire (goes inside coil pack), crimped onto the new wire.
<img src="http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/3362 ... jpg"></img>
Rubber boot (coil side) that came with new wire, goes ontop of the led.
<img src="http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/3362 ... jpg"></img>
You recover plastic boot and copper led from old wires.
<img src="http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/3362 ... jpg"></img>
The plastic boot goes ontop of rubber boot.
<img src="http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/3362 ... jpg"></img>
Wires used on this V8 were ACCEL Super Stock 8mm 5040R. To avoid making a custom wire use stock wires, or buy aftermarket set that fits the coil pack, or avoid wires and coil packs altogether by making COP work. When making these wires use plenty of lubricant and avoid pulling wires, silicone electric grease is perfect.
<img src="http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/3362 ... jpg"></img>
That's all you need. I'm going to ask now about sharing the VRS signal. Which is the only problem you're facing, other than that install is easy for you.
*** EDIT: You're good to go with reusing that VRS sensor. Make sure positive that supplies ECM also supplies positive on EDIS.