Just thinking about installing either MJ or MS-2 on a 1.4 K-series (Rover) engine. I know the standard flywheel is 36-2 with (I think) a VR sensor (the sensor certainly contains a magnet - this how the VR sensor works?).
Given I can overcome the problems of welding cast iron/steel, is there any reason why I couldn't "remove" the second gap to creat a 36-1 flywheel and use it instead of a trigger wheel? I'm guessing the only issue would be the OEM position of the missing tooth compared with the EDIS need for it to be 90 deg past the sensor at No.1 cylinder TDC.
K-series flywheel mod?
Moderators: JeffC, rdoherty, stieg, brentp
IIRC the triggerring is fitted to the flywheel by some screws and pressed inside a groove and my idea was to use 2 triggerrings to make one 36-1 ring out of it (i have a 1.4 K waiting, too ). its steel so you won't need to weld cast iron. the missing teeth should be exactly TDC so you have to rotate the trigger to match EDIS
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sorry, easy to misunderstood, i mean that i will buy a second triggerring, Rover called it "reluctorring", remove the one allready fitted to the flywheel, cut a part away, the one with the missing tooth TDC cylinder 2 and 3, than cut a part from the new, second ring to match the first ring but with all teeth, weld them together and than i have a triggerring that fits the flywheel and has 36-1 teeth pattern. just has to be rotated that the missing tooth is 90° before TDC
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I'll have to go back and have a look at the flywheel that is under my work bench. I didn't realise the timing ring was seperate - I assumed it was all machined in to the original wheel.
Have you worked out the relative posistions WRT to TDC? IIRC the flywheel has a single dowel, so will the VR sensor need moving?
Do you think the EDIS system will work with the Rover sensor?
Have you worked out the relative posistions WRT to TDC? IIRC the flywheel has a single dowel, so will the VR sensor need moving?
Do you think the EDIS system will work with the Rover sensor?
both flywheels i own have a grove machined and the ring pressed in. they are from SPi engines, 1.4l with 90HP. think all are the samedorset_clive wrote:I'll have to go back and have a look at the flywheel that is under my work bench. I didn't realise the timing ring was seperate - I assumed it was all machined in to the original wheel.
not for sure, i think the factory position of the missing tooth -> sensor is exactly TDC. yes, the flywheel has 1 dowel and 6 screws, but i would just refit the reluctor ring to the flywheel that it match the 90° BTDC EDIS needsHave you worked out the relative posistions WRT to TDC? IIRC the flywheel has a single dowel, so will the VR sensor need moving?
i hope soDo you think the EDIS system will work with the Rover sensor?
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Over the weekend, I had a look at a couple of spare K-series flywheels I've got laying around.
One is as you say, a machined grove with the trigger "wheel" folded and pressed in. On the other, the trigger points are actually machined into the body of the FW itself; this one is a 36-4.
I checked the "pressed in" FW and the dowel point is at no.1 TDC, and the gap in the trigger points equates to TDC on the sensor (i.e. both the sensor and gap are off set about 30 deg wrt to TDC).
I think the idea of converting the trigger ring from 36-2 to 36-1 would work (welding two small tabs on the ring), then we'd need a bit of calulation to poisition the gap at 90 deg ADTC in relation to the sensor at ~30 deg ADTC!!
The only downside would be having done the work, it would be difficult to test short of atucally installing the new FW and trying to run the engine!!
One is as you say, a machined grove with the trigger "wheel" folded and pressed in. On the other, the trigger points are actually machined into the body of the FW itself; this one is a 36-4.
I checked the "pressed in" FW and the dowel point is at no.1 TDC, and the gap in the trigger points equates to TDC on the sensor (i.e. both the sensor and gap are off set about 30 deg wrt to TDC).
I think the idea of converting the trigger ring from 36-2 to 36-1 would work (welding two small tabs on the ring), then we'd need a bit of calulation to poisition the gap at 90 deg ADTC in relation to the sensor at ~30 deg ADTC!!
The only downside would be having done the work, it would be difficult to test short of atucally installing the new FW and trying to run the engine!!
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- Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2007 1:21 pm