An epic of cock ups.
Mocked up all the gear on a friends carbed V8 trailer ( lots of access to the engine at the front)
Ran beautifully first time
Ok, a month later transfer to mine.
Didn't start, not a cough.
only change was a diode cct to power the tach signal for the lucas Fuel injection ECU.
Snip that away, I know it will run for about 3 seconds without then cut.
Still won't start.
Reverse the VR sensor leads, even tho nothing has been disturbed.
No dice.
put them back, scratch head.
Check for sparks, got one!
Now am confused, so scratch head again.
MUST be timing, so examine closely the crank arrangement. Sure enough I have a problem. I am 50 degrees BEFORE the missing tooth, INSTEAD OF 50 degrees after the missing tooth at TDC.
Doh! did I tell you how tough it is to tighten all the belts on a RRC? no?
So, to the question.
Is there any way to set up in the software to cater for my colossal misplacement?
Or does the whole lot need undoing and setting properly?
Crank wheel installation, software trigger offset?
Moderators: JeffC, rdoherty, stieg, brentp
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- Posts: 20
- Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2008 6:46 pm
Unfortunately, you will need to correct the physical installation. We are working on a firmware update that allows you to offset the trigger start point, but it will be limited to only +/- a few degrees.
But think of the bright side- at least you've identified the source of the problem and have a solution!
But think of the bright side- at least you've identified the source of the problem and have a solution!
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- Posts: 20
- Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2008 6:46 pm
Software offset
Thanks for answering Brent,
I think the software offset is neccassary within +- 5 degrees,
It is tough to get an accurate mount to zero tolerance on a wheel of smaller diameter. (mine isn't)
Does this mean that i should use a timing gun to get an accurate timing reference with just the edis running?
and offset all my tables from that figure?
Could I have set to 110 degrees of advance as I am 100 degrees forward of my position?
Would the software allow that?
So many questions...
Thanks
I think the software offset is neccassary within +- 5 degrees,
It is tough to get an accurate mount to zero tolerance on a wheel of smaller diameter. (mine isn't)
Does this mean that i should use a timing gun to get an accurate timing reference with just the edis running?
and offset all my tables from that figure?
Could I have set to 110 degrees of advance as I am 100 degrees forward of my position?
Would the software allow that?
So many questions...
Thanks
You can only put advance values into the Configurator between 0 and 59 inclusive...so the scope for massive installation error correction is a little limited.
Also, you really need the EDIS limp-home mode to spark at close to 10BTDC, or else you won't be limping home (well, only on foot) is something should go wrong.
Also, you really need the EDIS limp-home mode to spark at close to 10BTDC, or else you won't be limping home (well, only on foot) is something should go wrong.
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- Posts: 20
- Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2008 6:46 pm
Limp Home
LOL!
I'll change it anyway, just wondered what was and was not possible.
Thanks
RR
I'll change it anyway, just wondered what was and was not possible.
Thanks
RR
The EDIS module's requirements of a fixed sensor position constrains the amount of flexibility we have in this area- so any corrective offset effectively takes away from the adjustable range in the ignition map.
Most people don't need to go to 59 degree of advance- so the upper range is probably OK for a few degrees of adjustment. In the lower range we may have some other options to retain the ability to set the ignition advance to zero even if we've adjusted the offset in that direction.
Most people don't need to go to 59 degree of advance- so the upper range is probably OK for a few degrees of adjustment. In the lower range we may have some other options to retain the ability to set the ignition advance to zero even if we've adjusted the offset in that direction.
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- Posts: 20
- Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2008 6:46 pm
It's a Runner! Range Rover 3.9 V8 1991
Ok guys,
Got the toothed wheel on properly and aligned.
Marked it with touch up paint, best fiver I ever spent!
Any Dips in power earlier tonight can be attributed to a naturally occurring phenomena of internal combustion within a rover V8 that actually has enough power to create a decent spark.
Incidentally if you connect the Edis and Coil Packs to the normal coil supply it won't run. At all. Hmmmmmmm.
Anyway, if if the voltage is dipping that far, then it's not good enough to use, I'll switch a relay with it for edis and MJ power.
Anyway the thing runs on EDIS, got to neaten up the wiring and the plug leads, but definitely closer.
Got the toothed wheel on properly and aligned.
Marked it with touch up paint, best fiver I ever spent!
Any Dips in power earlier tonight can be attributed to a naturally occurring phenomena of internal combustion within a rover V8 that actually has enough power to create a decent spark.
Incidentally if you connect the Edis and Coil Packs to the normal coil supply it won't run. At all. Hmmmmmmm.
Anyway, if if the voltage is dipping that far, then it's not good enough to use, I'll switch a relay with it for edis and MJ power.
Anyway the thing runs on EDIS, got to neaten up the wiring and the plug leads, but definitely closer.