no 5volt

sierra2dr · Post by **sierra2dr** » Sun Apr 06, 2008 11:51 am

Ok,just been assembling the MB,and have tested the C7 and C5. Here are pictures how I am doing it. I'm sure someone will spot my error.

I am using a 9volt battery

and I have connected just GND and Live wires to the molex to power up

and here is my multimeter

thanks in advance

DannyP · Post by **DannyP** » Sun Apr 06, 2008 12:15 pm

Post a picture of how the components are installed. Possibly a reversed diode? Also, you must check at C7 and C10, not C5. Check all your solder joints, possibly a cold solder?

sierra2dr · Post by **sierra2dr** » Sun Apr 06, 2008 12:47 pm

Thanks for your reply Danny

DannyP wrote:Post a picture of how the components are installed.

I don't know if you can see the picture clearly,my mobile camera isn't great

DannyP wrote: Possibly a reversed diode?

doesn't seem so,but I am comparing my build against Brents photos

DannyP wrote:Also, you must check at C7 and C10, not C5.

Oh yeh,C10,that is what I meant,honest

DannyP wrote:Check all your solder joints, possibly a cold solder?

didn't know what cold solder is,I suspect it means not enough heat.

MartinM · Post by **MartinM** » Sun Apr 06, 2008 12:49 pm

Do I win the prize?

Your +V and ground wires into the Molex are at the wrong end of the plug....

sierra2dr · Post by **sierra2dr** » Sun Apr 06, 2008 1:03 pm

MartinM wrote:Do I win the prize?

Your +V and ground wires into the Molex are at the wrong end of the plug....

they are?
I was going off Brents diagram

next to PGM4 there is that notch,which I suspect is the clip. Ok,will try other end

MartinM · Post by **MartinM** » Sun Apr 06, 2008 1:11 pm

Yep - the diagram is looking into the board, so it's the same as looking into the back of the plug....

...so with the (EDIT) notch at the top and everything horizontal, the power connections are on the right. Yours are on the left...

EDIT: If the next question is "how do I get the pins out of the Molex?" then:
a) use a proper pin removal tool
b) use a proper pin removal tool
c) use a proper pin removal tool
d) if you soldered the wires to the pins, you could pull very hard on the wires. You will eventually pull the pin out. You might be lucky and not damage the inside of the plug, or you might damage it. If you do, you won't get a new pin to locate securely. If you never want to use PGM2 or TACH OUT ever then that's OK, otherwise you will need a new plug. You also will damage the pin, and have to use a new one
e) don't bother - accept that you PGM2 wire is brown and your TACH OUT wire is red.

If I couldn't do a) to c), I'd do e)

sierra2dr · Post by **sierra2dr** » Sun Apr 06, 2008 1:45 pm

You are correct Martin,thanks m8!

MartinM wrote:e) don't bother - accept that you PGM2 wire is brown and your TACH OUT wire is red.

If I couldn't do a) to c), I'd do e)

had a fiddle with the pins,and tugged at the wires,sod it I thought

I'll just have to solder green wire onto brown,and whatever colour PGM3 will be.
Just to justify me being a muppet,on the diagram the notch replicates the plug characteristics. The molex connected to the PCB has an alcove.
Anyway,the molex plug that the wires are connected to,is numbered 1)GND 8)12v

DannyP · Post by **DannyP** » Sun Apr 06, 2008 4:21 pm

Wow, I missed that one completely. First thing in the A.M., no coffee until after I replied! That will teach me.

Post by **brentp** » Sun Apr 06, 2008 5:01 pm

Even though it states the orientation in the diagram, it's proven it's been a source of confusion more than a few times. I think it would help to clarify the graphic a bit more, perhaps showing the actual end view of the board.

I noticed, connecting power on the opposite pins of the plug seems to have no detrimental effect. However, I can't claim I designed it this way intentionally!!