Hi gang,
I managed to get the crank pulley off with a battle,using a 2 legged puller,I think I'll buy a 3 legged one for next time.
Anyway,as I have done a PAS conversion on mine,I have a twin groove on the pulley,so it is different to what you may have seen. I just want to clarify,via the following picture,that I have this correct. So it should be 90 degrees BTDC? And should the tooth be central to the TDC timing mark? What happens if it will be slightly off?
I'm just comparing to this chap here http://www.ford-capri.fsnet.co.uk/white ... gajolt.htm
I'm guessing the TDC mark is around here,marked red,I count 11 teeth
for comparison
As you can see in the centre of the pulley,there are four threaded holes,conveniently. The threaded holes don't appear to be metric,I've tried an M6 bolt,too small,and an M8 is too big. It seems it would be a good idea to use these to bolt down the trigger wheel. But I would need to weld on brackets to the trigger wheel like this
As you can see there is a socket screw upside down,this is an M6. If I was to make holes through the trigger wheel and pulley,does the head look too big?
trigger wheel on a Pinto pulley?
Moderators: JeffC, rdoherty, stieg, brentp
*as noted in the previous post, TDC should be 9 teeth 'behind' the missing tooth ie the missing tooth should pass by the TDC mark 9 teeth before the motor reaches TDC.
*i would think you need to count from the middle of the gap, but it really doesnt matter. as long as it is about right, you will be able to start the motor, then use a timing light to adjust the position of the sensor. with mjlr unplugged, you know for a fact that EDIS should be firing the plugs at 10deg BTDC, so you adjust the sensor position until that is indicated by the timing light.
so, following from that, if the position of the wheel/sensor is 'off' then it merely alters your timing by a fixed amount right across the map. the sensor bracket therefore needs to allow for some adjustment of its position.
*re removing the pulley. might pay to find out what the threaded holes are. on my car, you can remove the pulley by turning bolts into the holes. the end of the bolt goes right through and pushes on the flange behind the pulley and pushes it off (ie one bolt each in diagonally opposite holes). it is a lot easier than frigging around with pullers!
alexander.
*i would think you need to count from the middle of the gap, but it really doesnt matter. as long as it is about right, you will be able to start the motor, then use a timing light to adjust the position of the sensor. with mjlr unplugged, you know for a fact that EDIS should be firing the plugs at 10deg BTDC, so you adjust the sensor position until that is indicated by the timing light.
so, following from that, if the position of the wheel/sensor is 'off' then it merely alters your timing by a fixed amount right across the map. the sensor bracket therefore needs to allow for some adjustment of its position.
*re removing the pulley. might pay to find out what the threaded holes are. on my car, you can remove the pulley by turning bolts into the holes. the end of the bolt goes right through and pushes on the flange behind the pulley and pushes it off (ie one bolt each in diagonally opposite holes). it is a lot easier than frigging around with pullers!
alexander.
-
- Posts: 122
- Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2006 8:17 pm
- Location: North Yorkshire, UK
trigger wheel on a Pinto pulley?
What is important here is the correct position of sensor relative to the missing tooth. The missing tooth should line up with the sensor with the engine at 90 degrees before TDC. It doesn't matter where you mount the sensor but you need to find a good location and mount it on a robust bracket, then position the trigger wheel with the missing tooth aligning with the sensor when the engine is at 90 degrees BTDC.
Hope this helps
Hope this helps