Fiiting the toothed wheel 90 degrees "the other (wrong) way"

EDIS and Megajolt installation related topics. Be sure to review the <a href="http://www.autosportlabs.net/MJLJ_V4_vehicle_installation_guide">Vehicle installation guide</a>

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AntP
Posts: 0
Joined: Sat Oct 23, 2004 8:50 pm

Fiiting the toothed wheel 90 degrees "the other (wrong) way"

Post by AntP »

I've just realised I have made a mistake. I've fitted my toothed wheel wrong!

I have had my 4AGE running now using thr MJLJ and the Toyota ECU fro fueling. I've built the megasquirt now - almost ready to fit it.

I saw a thread on another forum that refered to the orientation of the missing tooth compared to the VR sensor. I checked last night - I thought it was the missing tooth should be 90 before the sensor, not the sensor 90 before the missing tooth.

Anyway I have a nicely welded wheel with the missing tooth at the top (doh!) and the sensor on the exhaust side like Brents. I should have put the missing tooth at the bottom!!!! I had thought it looked funny when I did get it running as the engine wouldn't run when the leads were connected as per the numbers on the EDIS coil. I had assumed the Ford cylinder config was different...

It does seem to function fine now though - I have leads 2/3 going to cylinders 1/4 and leads 1/4 going to cylinders 2/3. As the EDIS fires those pairs of cyliners at the same time it should not matter.?. I've had the strobe on No.1 cylinder with the EDIS controlling the sparks and I get a rock steady 10degrees BTDC, and on cylinder 3 too.

Any comments on whether it could be left this way. I was just going to re-label the coil rather than have to seperate the wheel/pulley (which might just become a nightmare to do!)

Cheers
Ant

aldrin
Posts: 0
Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2005 4:35 am

Hi, Ant Sounds like you ar

Post by aldrin »

Hi, Ant

Sounds like you are just 1/2 turn out of phase.
Instead of the EDIS syncing up on TDC of No. 1 (+4) cylinder it is synced to No. 2 (+3).
The EDIS doesn't know or care where the cylinders actually are it's output is simply in relation to its trigger wheel.
The soulution as you have found is to swap the leads from 1+4 and 3+4 cylinders to bring the sprk output back in phase.
Instead of re-labeling the coil why not swap the two coil drive wires over ? this will have the same effect and you can return your plug leads to their labeled cylinders.

The sensor orientation can get confusing to say the least. I am having a pulley turned up and the trigger ring from a ford Sierra CVH pressed on. The two desriptions I have seen are.

The missing tooth is aligned with the sensor at 90 deg BEFORE TDC.
With the engine at TDC the missing tooth is 90 deg AFTER the sensor.

Before? after? my set up is also a permenant fix to the pulley so much checking and re checking was done... infact i must go have a look at it agian now !

Aldrin

hotrodfil
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 7:59 pm

sensor position

Post by hotrodfil »

Hi - just sorting out the sensor position on my flathead V8. Trying to fathom wether the sensor goes 50° before the sensor, or the other way round is doing my head in! Found this image and wondered if it's correct?
Phil
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v321/ ... swheel.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">

Oliver Sedlacek
Posts: 68
Joined: Mon Sep 13, 2004 8:45 am
Location: The Chalfonts
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Just leave it.

Post by Oliver Sedlacek »

Just leave it.

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