VR sensor installation problems

steve_c · Post by **steve_c** » Thu Jul 17, 2008 12:27 pm

I have set up the sensor to be 90 degrees from the missing tooth. When I put on a timing light I look to be 1 tooth adrift i.e the timing mark on the pulley shows counterclockwise of the timing pointer by about 1 tooth (10 degrees) this is with 10 degrees set into the timing light. The odd thing is I have to dial in nearly 60 degrees to get the timing marks to line up. Is there something about the wasted spark system that upsets timing lights (Gunson with dial in-able advance)? I have wired up the plugs as per the coil block numbering i.e no. one plug to '1' no.2 plug to '2' etc. I presume this is correct? This is my second attempt at putting the sensor in and I'm getting very frustrated . The engine starts ok so I'm somewhere near! Maybe I need to make my teeth profile deeper. I've had the teeth machined into the pulley and have alrwady deepened the 'dips' with a Dremel. Maybe I need to take some more out.

luke6040 · Post by **luke6040** » Thu Jul 17, 2008 1:37 pm

do you have an image of your wheel?

steve_c · Post by **steve_c** » Thu Jul 17, 2008 1:45 pm

See my post below, 'EDIS running problems'

Details problems with my first attempt. I have ground out the 'dips' by about another 1mm.

luke6040 · Post by **luke6040** » Thu Jul 17, 2008 3:13 pm

I have not got mine working yet but this how deep they are: http://s73.photobucket.com/albums/i229/ ... mview=grid . I notice you dont have any adjustment, are you sure the missing tooth is in the correct position?

steve_c · Post by **steve_c** » Thu Jul 17, 2008 3:26 pm

I see you have machined your pulley to accept a trigger wheel. Maybe I should have done the same. I can't remove the pulley ow unless I take the engine out, but I can get a Dremel to it if I'm careful.

I've double checked the TDC position and have the sensor 9 teeth away from the notch give or take a fraction of a tooth. The sensor is 1 to 1.5mm away from the teeth. I have some adjustment in the sensor position. Will try again this evening.

luke6040 · Post by **luke6040** » Thu Jul 17, 2008 3:36 pm

can you try getting the sensor closer that may get rid of/reduce the depth problem.

steve_c · Post by **steve_c** » Thu Jul 17, 2008 6:09 pm

Moved the sensor as close as I dare. At least the timing marks are getting closer and vaguely at 10 degrees. Still some instability though. I'm now gringing some deeper groves into pulley. This could take some time and several Dremel grinding wheels!!

luke6040 · Post by **luke6040** » Thu Jul 17, 2008 7:19 pm

how wel centred is the pully? When i put mine on the lath it was miles out.

steve_c · Post by **steve_c** » Thu Jul 17, 2008 8:30 pm

It's centred to within about 0.5mm

luke6040 · Post by **luke6040** » Thu Jul 17, 2008 10:58 pm

how did you get it that close?

steve_c · Post by **steve_c** » Fri Jul 18, 2008 12:00 pm

I think the guy that did the machining for me must have centred it up. The tops of the teeth have certainly been machined so I imagine he centred it prior to cutting the teeth.

david jenkins · Post by **david jenkins** » Fri Jul 18, 2008 12:30 pm

0.5mm is NOT concentric! If I was making a disc on my lathe I'd be trying to achieve 0.05mm, or better (0.05mm roughly equal to 1.5 thou, in inches)

luke6040 · Post by **luke6040** » Fri Jul 18, 2008 1:06 pm

have you seen the mini pully on the end mine waay nearly 2mm out, by turning it down tho i have got it nearly spot on.
Not sure if that possible when cutting the grooves out of the original

steve_c · Post by **steve_c** » Mon Jul 21, 2008 7:56 pm

I've just finished reprofiling the teeth on my pulley wheel. Now 3 to 4mm deep with a much squarer profile. There has been little improvement on the consistancy of the timing. Wandering about by 10 degrees or so. I have positioned the sensor so it's almost touching the pulley. I was expecting a solid 10 degree default timing. I'm somewhat disheartened by this. I will connect up the Megajolt control unit later this week to see if this makes any difference. I'm really running out of ideas as to why the timing is erratic, unless it is a duff EDIS unit. If things don't improve I'm tempted to get an Aldon distributor instead.

Post by **brentp** » Mon Jul 21, 2008 8:38 pm

Haven't seen a picture of your trigger wheel yet, but a simple and safe approach is to emulate what the Ford engineers did for their OEM designs.

This is a Ford Escort trigger wheel adapted to a Toyota 4AG pulley. Note the depth and thickness of the teeth.

The timing should be rock solid at 10 degrees on EDIS alone- this indicates the EDIS module can accurately track the position of the crank shaft.