At the moment I've wired up the whole system but it's not actually driving the engine as I'm still testing it all. The old dizzy setup is currently controlling the engine.
The VR sensor is in position and the EDIS is sparking ok. My laptop talks ok to the MegaJolt unit (uploading/downloading maps) but the runtime display is not showing any RPM. I don't have a MAP or TPS at the moment but the runtime does show a value of 29 for that.
Any ideas why the RPM isn't showing? Does it have to be running the engine to detect the RPM as I've only got one spare plug so tested each coil output one at a time.
cheers
Matt
Runtime display not working
Moderators: JeffC, rdoherty, stieg, brentp
No RPM on runtime display
Just to add to the above,
I've checked all my wiring and all seems ok. Also the MAP/TPS on the runtime display does change ok, just the RPM doesn't.
When I put it all together, the 2N2222A transistors I used look different to ones I've seen elsewhere. They look like this:
http://www.cate1.co.uk/megajolt/pics/board6.jpg
and have "C639 W 36" written on them. Would having the wrong transistors effect this? Also I didn't solder in Q8 as I modified the board for TPS as seen here:
http://www.cate1.co.uk/megajolt/assembly.php
cheers
Matt
I've checked all my wiring and all seems ok. Also the MAP/TPS on the runtime display does change ok, just the RPM doesn't.
When I put it all together, the 2N2222A transistors I used look different to ones I've seen elsewhere. They look like this:
http://www.cate1.co.uk/megajolt/pics/board6.jpg
and have "C639 W 36" written on them. Would having the wrong transistors effect this? Also I didn't solder in Q8 as I modified the board for TPS as seen here:
http://www.cate1.co.uk/megajolt/assembly.php
cheers
Matt
Still No RPM on runtime display HELP!
Further to my previous messages I decided to solder in the remaining diode and transistor and remove the TPS mod. Alas this made no difference and I'm still left with a Megajolt that can download/upload maps but doesn't detect the engine RPM and hence (I assume) won't be generating a SAW signal.
As far as I know the PIP signal is getting inputted ok as the EDIS all works fine and is firing in "limp home" mode. Is there any way of checking this? I've tried 2 EDIS modules which both work so am pretty sure that side is all ok.
Also does anyone know if the transistors I've got are ok and wired in correctly? (please see earlier messages) I'm going to order some proper 2N2222A ones just to be sure, but if that fails I'm running out of ideas!
cheers
Matt
As far as I know the PIP signal is getting inputted ok as the EDIS all works fine and is firing in "limp home" mode. Is there any way of checking this? I've tried 2 EDIS modules which both work so am pretty sure that side is all ok.
Also does anyone know if the transistors I've got are ok and wired in correctly? (please see earlier messages) I'm going to order some proper 2N2222A ones just to be sure, but if that fails I'm running out of ideas!
cheers
Matt
Looks like you weren't using
Looks like you weren't using 2n2222's; however, the circuit is compatible with a wide range of switching transistors.
What you have to double check is to make sure you have the Emitter- Base- collector orientation correct; check the data sheet for the transistor you're using and compare it to the data sheet on the 2n2222.
I think you'll find that as the root of your problem.
Let us know how it turns out-
Brent
What you have to double check is to make sure you have the Emitter- Base- collector orientation correct; check the data sheet for the transistor you're using and compare it to the data sheet on the 2n2222.
I think you'll find that as the root of your problem.
Let us know how it turns out-
Brent
You're quite correct!
Cheers Brent, you're quite right they were round the wrong way! In fact both Bill and Guy on the Yahoo list spotted it too so I removed all the transistors and managed to re-insert Q1 the correct way round (the other's didn't have long enough pins!) and it works great!
Just need to align the toothed wheel with 90 BTDC. Then, when I get my timing light, create a base map using a combination of the Emerald maps I've got, my current dizzy's map and a bit of reading of a book on ignition systems and I'll be away.
cheers
Matt
Just need to align the toothed wheel with 90 BTDC. Then, when I get my timing light, create a base map using a combination of the Emerald maps I've got, my current dizzy's map and a bit of reading of a book on ignition systems and I'll be away.
cheers
Matt