I've installed the Megajolt MAP system to my Peugeot 205 1.9 Mi16 running bike carbs, but it just won't start.
System: -Megajolt V4 running latest firmware, std map, Ford Edis4, Ford coil, Ford VR sensor, new NGK plugs, new NGK plug leads from Fiesta RS Turbo (only ones that fit my head)
Situation so far: -Getting spark on all plugs
-12v on pip idle, 5.5v while cranking
-0.01v on saw idle, 0.18v while cranking
MAP takeoff is not connected, but I figured it's not needed as it will not affect the cranking advance.
Problem: engine gets flooded, plugs get soaked. Best i ever got was two misfires. What I can think of is that the VR sensor may be a few degrees off, or I may have gotten the firing order wrong.
On my engine firing order is 1342. I've seen that there are numbers on the coil. Do I go from 1 on coil -> 1 cylinder, 2 on coil -> 2nd cylinder, etc or do I go 1 on coil -> 1st cylinder, 2 on coil -> 3rd cylinder, 3 on coil ->4th cylinder, 4 on coil -> 2nd cylinder?
Also should I play with the sensor offset in the megajolt and how should I adjust the cranking advance to get it to start?
Any help will be much appreciated. Thanks,
Andrei
Later edit: my trigger wheel is 3 mm thick and the teeth are slightly shorter than the gaps. I haven't tried a timing light yet, but i could use all the advice I can get.
Getting spark but non starter
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Spockie-Tech
- Posts: 152
- Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 12:52 pm
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
Was the engine running normally before you fitted the Megajolt/EDIS or is this a first start for this engine/carb combination ?
If you are getting a reliable spark on all plugs, the wiring is probably mostly correct.
I did see one Edis on a bench test that would spark with the VR in both orientations, but one was a weak intermittent spark and the other polarity gave a visibly much stronger and more consistent spark. Try reversing the VR sensor wires, and see if the spark goes away or gets weaker. If only one works, its obvious which one is right, if both work, choose the stronger one
That then leaves it up to timing or mixture. Assuming the engine has been running with the pre-megajolt fuelling setup it must be timing.
Have you checked for correct alignment of your missing tooth as per the install guide ?
If you have the firing order wrong, you usually can tell pretty easy as the engine coughs, kicks back and generally gets upset at being sparked miles out.
If its not kicking back seriously, it sounds like the park is mostly in the right place, but probably way retarded behind TDC .
Unplug the megajolt for now and try to get it started on just the EDIS in limp-home 10 degree mode. I t should start easily in limp home mode, then you can add the timing control once its ticking over.
Try your timing light and see whats happening, but be aware some timing lights can be confused by waste-spark systems.
If you are getting a reliable spark on all plugs, the wiring is probably mostly correct.
I did see one Edis on a bench test that would spark with the VR in both orientations, but one was a weak intermittent spark and the other polarity gave a visibly much stronger and more consistent spark. Try reversing the VR sensor wires, and see if the spark goes away or gets weaker. If only one works, its obvious which one is right, if both work, choose the stronger one
That then leaves it up to timing or mixture. Assuming the engine has been running with the pre-megajolt fuelling setup it must be timing.
Have you checked for correct alignment of your missing tooth as per the install guide ?
If you have the firing order wrong, you usually can tell pretty easy as the engine coughs, kicks back and generally gets upset at being sparked miles out.
If its not kicking back seriously, it sounds like the park is mostly in the right place, but probably way retarded behind TDC .
Unplug the megajolt for now and try to get it started on just the EDIS in limp-home 10 degree mode. I t should start easily in limp home mode, then you can add the timing control once its ticking over.
Try your timing light and see whats happening, but be aware some timing lights can be confused by waste-spark systems.
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unariciflocos
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2009 1:38 pm
I did an 8v to 16 conversion so it's a different engine. I did keep the fueling and carbs from the old engine (same cc) so there shouldn't be any problems with fueling.
The spark looks strong, if I keep the plug 1 cm from the head i still get a spark, don't know if this is relevant to how strong it is.
I installed the trigger wheel on the crank pulley following the exact diagram on the site. I had all 36 teeth, mounted the sensor on the block and after that put the engine at tdc and grinded off the extra tooth. Sensor sits less than 1 mm from the wheel.
I don't have a timing light but will borrow one and test. As for the firing order from what I read I'll just connect cylinders 1 and 4 to A and 2 and 3 to B, if it doesn't work swop them from a to b.
Hope i'll get it running today.
The spark looks strong, if I keep the plug 1 cm from the head i still get a spark, don't know if this is relevant to how strong it is.
I installed the trigger wheel on the crank pulley following the exact diagram on the site. I had all 36 teeth, mounted the sensor on the block and after that put the engine at tdc and grinded off the extra tooth. Sensor sits less than 1 mm from the wheel.
I don't have a timing light but will borrow one and test. As for the firing order from what I read I'll just connect cylinders 1 and 4 to A and 2 and 3 to B, if it doesn't work swop them from a to b.
Hope i'll get it running today.
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unariciflocos
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2009 1:38 pm