Error message "Timeout Reading Run Time Data"
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Error message "Timeout Reading Run Time Data"
Hi, I'm running MJLite Jr and using a serial port on XP computer running V3.2.1 software. I've run this system on my car for a couple of years and just ran into this error problem when I noticed the tach was running eratic and car performance seamed to be on "limp home" settings. So I hooked up the MJ to my computer and got this error message. Reworked the wires into the molex and tested for 12v & got that voltage into MJ box. After this the performance came back into the car but no tach and no readings on the computer. Hooked a second car into the same cable and everything was OK on the monitor. Any suggestions as to this error message and no tach and no readings on the computer monitor....but the car is running just great.
Thanks for any suggestions,
Thanks for any suggestions,
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- Posts: 704
- Joined: Sun Sep 07, 2008 1:54 pm
- Location: Fareham, GB
Hey Koolkat
What you got it running in?? Any pics for the powered by section
Hmmm, have you had a look at the circuit board for any signs of damage??
Are you able to check the voltages around the circuit board as per http://www.autosportlabs.net/MJLJ_V3_ki ... _operation
The computer talks to megajolt through one chip max232 (U2) and the tacho is powered by a little transistor (T2) so have a good look especially around these areas.
What you got it running in?? Any pics for the powered by section
Hmmm, have you had a look at the circuit board for any signs of damage??
Are you able to check the voltages around the circuit board as per http://www.autosportlabs.net/MJLJ_V3_ki ... _operation
The computer talks to megajolt through one chip max232 (U2) and the tacho is powered by a little transistor (T2) so have a good look especially around these areas.
1310 A-series Mini, lightened and built myself. V4 board and loving it
Rasputin22 - The Mini Forum
Rasputin22 - MK1 Golf Forum
Megajolt repair for the UK available
Rasputin22 - The Mini Forum
Rasputin22 - MK1 Golf Forum
Megajolt repair for the UK available
Hi, I'm running a1968 XKE Jaguar, have been running this setup for 3 yrs now with no problems just plenty of performance. I'm running 38* of advance with MAP in my dual overhead 6 cylinder engine with 3 SU carbs. I had the teeth cut into the crankshaft dampner, that's the trigger wheel. Check out YouTube, just search for "EDIS Jaguar" and it will show bench testing and dampner cutting of the 36-1 teeth. I'll check out those chips and see what they show, super thanks !
Mike in Phoenix, AZ USA
Mike in Phoenix, AZ USA
Hi, I'm about to replace the two chips that may be burned out or at least those two chips are not talking to either the tach or the XP computer. My question is, has anyone else had a similar problem. I've been running this system 11/07 with no problems and plenty of performance.
Thanks,
Mike Goodwin
' 68 E Type Jaguar
Thanks,
Mike Goodwin
' 68 E Type Jaguar
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- Posts: 704
- Joined: Sun Sep 07, 2008 1:54 pm
- Location: Fareham, GB
I have come across this problem once before but it wasn't on my own unit. I don't know how long they have been running with it. It's rare for the max232 to go but it has been known.
Also the tacho is driven by a small transistor on a V3 and i have also had to replace one of these aswell.
Also the tacho is driven by a small transistor on a V3 and i have also had to replace one of these aswell.
1310 A-series Mini, lightened and built myself. V4 board and loving it
Rasputin22 - The Mini Forum
Rasputin22 - MK1 Golf Forum
Megajolt repair for the UK available
Rasputin22 - The Mini Forum
Rasputin22 - MK1 Golf Forum
Megajolt repair for the UK available
Hi, thanks for your help and post. I just replaced both the T2 (2N2222NPN) & the U2 (MAX232N). Then I put 12V to the board, verified 12V on the board side of the Molex connector and have no power showing at any of the points to check. U1 / U2 or PS1. OK, I'm upset but will work this out. I have 12V going into the board, on both sides of the Molex pins, nothing indicating on the board itself. Other suggestions please (?) Remember, this board has been working just fine for over two years +.
Thanks for any additional suggestions or chips to replace.
Mike Goodwin
Phoenix, AZ
KoolKat E Type Jaguar
Thanks for any additional suggestions or chips to replace.
Mike Goodwin
Phoenix, AZ
KoolKat E Type Jaguar
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- Posts: 704
- Joined: Sun Sep 07, 2008 1:54 pm
- Location: Fareham, GB
Have you done the voltage verification as per http://www.autosportlabs.net/MJLJ_V3_ki ... _operation
Are you getting 5v at all?? Even at the voltage regulator U3. Centre pin should be ground. One pin 12v, other pin 5v. This component gives the whole board the required 5v needed. If you not getting 5v out of this but 12v is going in then you have a duff voltage regulator.
Then check that IC1 ULN2003 is also getting 12v.
Hopefully this should indicate your problem.
Ryan
Are you getting 5v at all?? Even at the voltage regulator U3. Centre pin should be ground. One pin 12v, other pin 5v. This component gives the whole board the required 5v needed. If you not getting 5v out of this but 12v is going in then you have a duff voltage regulator.
Then check that IC1 ULN2003 is also getting 12v.
Hopefully this should indicate your problem.
Ryan
1310 A-series Mini, lightened and built myself. V4 board and loving it
Rasputin22 - The Mini Forum
Rasputin22 - MK1 Golf Forum
Megajolt repair for the UK available
Rasputin22 - The Mini Forum
Rasputin22 - MK1 Golf Forum
Megajolt repair for the UK available
Hi, I tested the board again, 12V on each side of the Molex connector. On the IC1 I'm getting .20V on the 12V pin and on the
U3 voltage regulator with three legs, the leg next to the C1 shows .22V, center leg ground and leg next to C2 shows nothing.
Do you think replacing the voltage regulator would fix this problem of low or no voltage across the board? With no 12V going into the VR, that seems strange that .22V coming out (?)
Suggestions, thoughts?
Thanks, Mike Goodwin
Phoenix, AZ
KoolKat E Type Jaguar
U3 voltage regulator with three legs, the leg next to the C1 shows .22V, center leg ground and leg next to C2 shows nothing.
Do you think replacing the voltage regulator would fix this problem of low or no voltage across the board? With no 12V going into the VR, that seems strange that .22V coming out (?)
Suggestions, thoughts?
Thanks, Mike Goodwin
Phoenix, AZ
KoolKat E Type Jaguar
Hi, I'm using a 12V car battery. As mentioned, I've got 12V on both sides of the Molex connector but no +5V readings anywhere on the board. If the VR is bad, could I still get the commands from the MJ unit to the EDIS. Car runs fine, just no tach output andno ability to talk to a XP computer with a serial port. May check out the ability to replace the VR and report back,
Thanks,
Mike Goodwin
Phoenix, AZ
KoolKat 1968 E Type
Thanks,
Mike Goodwin
Phoenix, AZ
KoolKat 1968 E Type
Hi, after doing some research on the NET and reviewing some pictures of the LM2937ET-50 (U3) I believe that the pin next to the C1 chip is the input pin, the center pin is the ground and the pin next to the C2 chip is 5V+ output. The chip is rated to maximum 14.4V input and this is what may have caused my problems with the board. Too much voltage input to the board. My voltage gauge on the dash is showing 14+ and may have spiked higher. Has anyone seen this problem with the
LM2937ET-50 burning out?
Thanks,
Mike Goodwin
Phoenix, AZ
KoolKat 1968 E Type Jaguar
LM2937ET-50 burning out?
Thanks,
Mike Goodwin
Phoenix, AZ
KoolKat 1968 E Type Jaguar
Check the markings on the voltage regulator device. is it the LM2937 or does it say LF50?
Your V3 likely has either a LM2937 or the LF50AB regulator.
Anyway- the LM2937ET has a max continuous voltage input of 26 volts. The LF50AB has a max input voltage of 16V
Both are designed to go into "shutdown' mode when those ratings are exceeded- and therefore should not "burn out" the regulator, providing a sane input voltage was present (typically less than 40V). According to the datasheets.
datasheets:
http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM2937.pdf
http://www.st.com/stonline/books/pdf/docs/2574.pdf
In any case, if you cannot observe correct voltage regulator behavior, it would still help to replace it.
Keep us posted on your investigation!
Your V3 likely has either a LM2937 or the LF50AB regulator.
Anyway- the LM2937ET has a max continuous voltage input of 26 volts. The LF50AB has a max input voltage of 16V
Both are designed to go into "shutdown' mode when those ratings are exceeded- and therefore should not "burn out" the regulator, providing a sane input voltage was present (typically less than 40V). According to the datasheets.
datasheets:
http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM2937.pdf
http://www.st.com/stonline/books/pdf/docs/2574.pdf
In any case, if you cannot observe correct voltage regulator behavior, it would still help to replace it.
Keep us posted on your investigation!
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- Posts: 704
- Joined: Sun Sep 07, 2008 1:54 pm
- Location: Fareham, GB
It sounds like the voltage regulator is not even recieveing 12v supply. I would now track every trace between 12v at the molex connector all the way to the voltage regulator. You should at least get 12v to the input of the voltage regulator. I'll send you a link for the circuit diagram of the v3 board to aid your fault finding.
By the sounds of it to me it is either a track which has broken or one of the diodes between the supply and the regultor has failed.
By the sounds of it to me it is either a track which has broken or one of the diodes between the supply and the regultor has failed.
1310 A-series Mini, lightened and built myself. V4 board and loving it
Rasputin22 - The Mini Forum
Rasputin22 - MK1 Golf Forum
Megajolt repair for the UK available
Rasputin22 - The Mini Forum
Rasputin22 - MK1 Golf Forum
Megajolt repair for the UK available
Hi, with the aid of a magnifying glass, I'm seeing I think, the following:
LF50ABP
ST WO6239
CHINA
I'll do some trace fault finding and see what I come up with. I'm sorry if I posted information which might not have been correct on the 14.4V input listing.
Thanks,
Mike Goodwin
Phoenix, AZ
1968 E Type Jaguar KoolKat
LF50ABP
ST WO6239
CHINA
I'll do some trace fault finding and see what I come up with. I'm sorry if I posted information which might not have been correct on the 14.4V input listing.
Thanks,
Mike Goodwin
Phoenix, AZ
1968 E Type Jaguar KoolKat
Hi, I'm reading the circuit diagram and trying to follow the 12V from the Molex connector to the voltage regulator. If there is suppose to be 12V on the Molex pin and then 12V on the VR input pin and then 5V output, can I just go to the VR input pin and apply 12V to power the unit? If a track is broken or burned out between the Molex connector and the VR, can that be easly fixed? What diodes are between the Molex connector and the VR?
Thanks,
Mike Goodwin
KoolKat E Type Jaguar
Phoenix, AZ
Thanks,
Mike Goodwin
KoolKat E Type Jaguar
Phoenix, AZ