Mega jolt problems Mini A+ working! another problem!!

nickg · Post by **nickg** » Tue Dec 21, 2010 12:20 pm

hi everyone!

im trying to mega jolt my 1293

so i have bought a mega jolt!

i bought a pre done wire harness for it for a mini & a trigger wheel kit for a mini.

i can't get it to work.

firstly ill start to tell you what i have done & what i have not.

firstly it will not start in limp mode.

it starts with the mega jolt plugged in but sounds like a bag of nails riding on a lawn mower. lol

I changed the timing advance to 12 playing & committed a map & now it wont start with the mega jolt at all.

it wont let me change it back to 10 degrees & has a 3 below ( deegre maybe? it keeps coming up with a error

drove the car on the dizzy & just had the mega jolt running to confirm it was working & it does pick up revs & other things seem to work and i could even create a data log?

i have not gapped the plugs, was only using normal plugs not resistor type leads either. but i do have some new resistor plugs. what gap should they be?

i have not gapped the sensor plug it sits very close but not sure how close it needs to be? it's a kit as i said.

i have limited knowledge & winging this as i go sort of so be kind.

One thing i know i need to confirm is the timing?

i have never used a timing light but i will give anything a go to learn or i can get some one to do it for me.

im close to getting it to work, i can feel it! the last hurdles are annoying me.

i can confirm the trigger wheel tooth sits Tdc & the plug is 90 degree to it.

i also put leads No 1 plug is by the water pump. Running right to left, number 4 is by the flywheel.

http://media.photobucket.com/image/ben% ... 010251.jpg my trigger wheel.

what should i be looking at ?
plug gap
sensor gap
timing & that degree option?

then what do i adjust on the mea jolt? i noticed when it was idling it was showing between 9 touching 10 kinda up & down quickly on the mega jolt.

what is it making a commit error when trying to change advance maps load up fine & i can retrieve them from the mega jolt also, so it is communicating.

thanks lads for the help, hopefully i can get this going.

very much appreciate the help.

any mini savy mega lads in brisbane? australia?

NITROPIXIE · Post by **NITROPIXIE** » Tue Dec 21, 2010 1:14 pm

Hi Nick and welcome to the forum.

Firstly before you start an engine you need to make sure everything is working as it should be, especially if your not quite sure and you have fitted a new component.

First thing I would do is disconnect the megajolt (turn it off or what ever). Now with the EDIS wired up as it should be with the coil pack, turn your engine over with the spark plugs out of the engine. This will cause less of a drain on a battery whilst fault finding, when turning the engine over (a good/full battery is helpful here).

On turning the engine over all the spark plugs are sparking? should be, if not fault find. Now connect up the timing light to spark plug No.1, with the spark plugs still out of the engine, get a friend to turn the engine over whilst you look at the timing. Confirm 10 degrees or make a note of the error.

Now connect up spark plug No.4 to the timing light and you should see exactly the same as connected to spark plug No.1. If not then you have connected it to the wrong cylinder/spark plug, find the correct spark plug.

Now connect up the megajolt, insert a trigger offset in the configuration software from the error you found when using the timing light without the megajolt connected. Then confirm with the timing light that what ever advance is displayed on the computer screen is the same as the timing marks on the engine. Again you can do this with the spark plugs out of the engine.

Are you having trouble getting your megajolt to talk to your computer??? Can you see variables (rpm, MAP) change on the computer screen???

Now you should be ready to start your engine, so put the plugs back in and try to start.

As a note,

resistive plugs are recommended as they reduce electric noise

don't worry about plug gaps for the time being, just leave as standard.

you may need to adjust your fuelling a little, normally a touch richer

In the ignition map library of this forum there are some mini maps which work quite well. My favourite is the minispi2.

The VR sensor needs to be approx 1mm away from the trigger wheel

nickg · Post by **nickg** » Tue Dec 21, 2010 2:17 pm

I can confirm the megajolt talks to the computer I Can you see variables (rpm, MAP advances) change on the computer screen I can even run and save a diagnostic read out and use the tuning graph.

I will go over everything you mentioned. Tomorrow

bossie · Post by **bossie** » Thu Dec 23, 2010 10:20 am

When I read that it doesn't run in limb-home mode, I firstly would check if the sensor is correctly installed. Is it 90 degrees before the missing tooth when the engine is in TDC?

nickg · Post by **nickg** » Mon Dec 27, 2010 2:33 am

right i got it working! thank god. faulty edis & sensor did not seem to be sitting right.

one thing is odd & maybe i have wired the plug/sensor wrong?

it is showing load & revs from the bottom instead of the top.

what i see on youtube it starts from the top & works it's way down?

so instead of descending as normal it's Ascending!

maybe the wires are reversed? on the sensor? when i commit a map nothing seems to really change

and it's idling ok around 550 to 600 feels to low and kinda bit lumpy & i have a 266 cam.. i think that is my twin su's needing a tune up as it does it with the dizzy also.

but at least it's working now im happy i got it to work one step closer!

so what do you think lads.

Post by **brentp** » Wed Dec 29, 2010 8:28 pm

The ignition map is laid out as low load / low RPM is in upper left.

Are you running a MAP or TPS system? If you're running MAP, the load will indicate around 100 Kpa. When the engine starts, it will jump up to whatever vacuum your engine produces at idle (between 20 and 50 Kpa)

If TPS, and the TPS is properly calibrated, the load will be at zero with throttle closed (top of map) and 100% at Wide Open Throttle (bottom of map)

nickg · Post by **nickg** » Wed Dec 29, 2010 11:24 pm

it is Map.

it runs fine in limp mode also.

it's running fine was a faulty edis.

i have it connected to the twin su vacum take off, when i start the engine & it is just on idle it is showing load of 100

so when i rev it or drive the car the revs move up **green little Box** & the load is less.

why is it showing that? could it be the way i have the vacume advance just pluged into the side of the twin su's vacum port?

as i said it runs fine with mega jolt or in limp mode smooth and it's MAP

Post by **brentp** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 4:48 am

The Megajolt should show some amount of vacuum and then show higher pressure as throttle is increased / blipped.

As mentioned before, you can simulate this by unplugging the vacuum line from the carbs and observe the pressure reading change as you suck or blow on the tube. Around 100 KPa is atmosphere; less than that is vacuum; more is 'boost' if a forced induction engine.

Your engine at idle should produce considerable vacuum- around 20-50 KPa. If you're not observing this then the port you are using is not appropriate, and you'll need to use a different vacuum port- preferably one on the manifold. Does your manifold have a port for a power brake booster? this is often an ideal place to measure engine load.

nickg · Post by **nickg** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 5:58 am

yes it has a brake booster port.

i will get a brass valve & tee it off from the mega jolt

problem sorted!

will it be ok to drive the car as is on mega jolt for now until i can T it off? or should i go back to the dizzy?