Autosport Labs

Hey guys,
I've just received my race capture pro, and one thing I'd like to be able to do is break up the BIG terminal block a bit. At the very least I want power to be separated.
So, who can help me figure out where to get these things? what size I need to order, etc?
If others feel the same way, it could also be an improvement in later units being shipped out?
-Matt

Hi Matt,

It's a pretty standard 3.5mm pluggable terminal block, so yes- you could get a 2 position and an 18 position terminal block to fit in the 20 position connector.

Phoenix Contact should make a terminal block that is compatible.

Great, Thanks Brent... thats just what I needed to know

Digikey seems to be a good place for anyone who's interested: (no minimum order on most of these blocks)

http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch ... 4&PV5=8104

Awesome, thanks for that link!

I ended up going with 2,4,8,6... but that could change once I get things set up.
I just got them this morning!

I see this wisdom in this "mod" because then the divided up terminal block roughly matches the grouping of the I/O terminals. It's not exactly clear to me how to replace the terminal block. Open the case and then it becomes obvious?

What about a DB20 or DB25 connector or some kind of automotive style header connector? I'm not looking forward to connecting and removing up to 20 individual wires with a tiny screwdriver, remembering which goes where and clamping down on the connections. So at the very least I'll be doing the terminal block mod, got to place an order with Mouser for some other stuff anyhow.

Thanks for the pics! Let us know how it works out.

GTIspirit - the terminal blocks are pluggable. They pull straight out from the back of the RaceCapture/Pro box.

We will likely never ever use computer-style DB25 connectors that require the user to solder wires onto miniature solder cups. At most we would use a Molex Mini-Fit connector like you see with our Megajolt project, where users would need to crimp / and or solder onto pins, then click them into the molex plug. But never say never, eh?

We will consider ruggedized automotive-style AMP Seal connectors for a more dust / waterproof (and more expensive) version of RaceCapture/Pro.

brentp wrote:
We will likely never ever use computer-style DB25 connectors that require the user to solder wires onto miniature solder cups. At most we would use a Molex Mini-Fit connector like you see with our Megajolt project, where users would need to crimp / and or solder onto pins, then click them into the molex plug. But never say never, eh?

We will consider ruggedized automotive-style AMP Seal connectors for a more dust / waterproof (and more expensive) version of RaceCapture/Pro.

If I could give you rep points for commenting you would never ever use a computer style DB25 connector I would! They are a pain to solder and not really so weathertight. If I really want to make my RaceCapturePro weatherproof I'll stick it in a Pelican/Otterbox.

Speaking of the MegaJolt, if it would work with the 4-vane Hall-effect distributor and transistorized ignition coil on my Mk2 16V you'd have another customer! (SCCA Improved Touring rules prohibit use of a crank trigger wheel on cars not originally so equipped, so I've got this to work with.)

In principle that is the sort of thing that Megajolt2 will be able to handle. I don't think it will be supported on initial release but on a later firmware release it should be possible to add support for that trigger pattern.

hi, i have a Corrado VR6, it has the same distributor (only 6 cylinder). Do you know if this is the same or comparable to you're MK2 ?

I have distributor leakage and would like to replace it with DIS / Megajolt. Why would it (or would not) work ?
Only thing i have in mind is does my ECU gets confused if i would remove the distributor ?
i think i need tacho signal to my ECU that could be deliverd by Megajolt. I allready have vacuum (intake ) lines, i think i could use these to feed MAP sensor.

am i right ?