I run TSD and Monte Carlo rallies in my Arntz Cobra replica. For years I have wanted to get rid on the distributor because it's so hard to work on in my car. I bought a package deal on eBay with the Megajolt, a 32-1 wheel, EDIS8 and 2 coils packs for a very reasonable price. The seller also threw in the connectors which were not in very good shape. I had suspicions that something was wrong with it and I would have trouble, so I also bought an extra EDIS8 module and coil pack just in case.
The hard part was fitting the tooth wheel to my crank pulley. I cut the center out of the wheel and spent hours grinding it so it would slide over the pulley and used JB Weld to attach the two parts together.
I could not find a download for a small block V8, so I used the one for the Mopar 440 and loaded it into the Megajolt.
After soldering the wires together into a harness, I had to modify the spark plug wires to connect to the coil packs. Then it was ready to test.
The first time I test drove the car it ran pretty good but did not accelerate very well. The tach did not work either. I read the troubleshooting guide and figured out that I had gotten the two signals between the EDIS module and the Megajolt crossed. After I straightened that out it ran MUCH BETTER! Wow, so smooth and so much power. We have ruin two events with it now and won one of them. My rally co-driver is also impressed with the system.
A big side benefit is that with the distributor and MSD system gone, there is much less interference in my rally computers and they are working more reliably too.
I mounted my coil packs in front of the engine. I cut the bottom out of an old 427 Ford surge tank and used it as a cover for the coil packs. Looks good and works good. Thank you all for all the great information on this website.
RallySnake
Megajolt Cobra
Moderators: JeffC, rdoherty, stieg, brentp
Megajolt Cobra
It doesn't have anything on it that doesn't make it go faster.
You are worried about a MIG'ed part? My first idea was to weld it, but I am not sure what kind of metal my toothed wheel is. I have used JB weld to attach all kinds of things together over the years and it is amazing strong if you follow two rules. 1. De-grease the parts thoroughly with carb cleaner or alcohol. 2. Let the part set up in direct sunlight for at least 8 hours. The toothed wheel does not have any real pressure on it, anyway.
My car was Steve Arntz's concept for kit cars in general, but I did not get a complete kit. I bought it third hand and just got the body and frame and had to find or build everything else.
My car was Steve Arntz's concept for kit cars in general, but I did not get a complete kit. I bought it third hand and just got the body and frame and had to find or build everything else.
It doesn't have anything on it that doesn't make it go faster.
For your info, when I've welded the part, I've seen some bubbles on the seams. It seems materials between toothed wheel and daper are not exactly the same. It was not a very clean weld.
JB weld will most likely be fine, it is just something I had avoided.
Cobra's are nice looking cars. A friend just got a kit (PGO kit made in Europe). I'd love to get one myself
I'm pushing for MJLJ conversion but it is far away from being able to go on roads for now...
JB weld will most likely be fine, it is just something I had avoided.
Cobra's are nice looking cars. A friend just got a kit (PGO kit made in Europe). I'd love to get one myself
I'm pushing for MJLJ conversion but it is far away from being able to go on roads for now...
Mathieu