Updated sensor and wheel mounting information

[brentp]

http://picasso.org/mjlj/?q=node/view/2

At the bottom I detailed how the sensor should be mounted in relation to TDC, for the different EDIS modules. Hopefully this should help the installation process!

Brent

[rondefly]

Brent, I am confused, Just doing much reading at this site but not finding a basic question I have. Concerning the trigger wheel, with a EDIS 4. how do the two signals know when the wheel is at every 90 deg? Does it count the teeth or are there some type of magnets at the 90 deg point. Also if the wheel has the correct number of teeth can the OD change to fit different mounting types. am wondering if I can get the wheel machined to the OD size I need.

Also where is the trigger wheel located on a ford excort 90-95 1.9?
Would like to get someone to answer the above questions please

Thankyou

Ron Triano

[brentp]

The Ford EDIS module takes care of the hard work regarding synchronizing itself to the teeth on the wheel. All the MJLJ does is tell the ford module what advance to go to.

The EDIS module "asks" for the advance command on the PIP line- the MJLJ "answers" back with the appropriate signal on the SAW line. This conversation happens over and over, with every ignition event.

The trigger wheel on the Escort is mounted to the crank pulley- when you get the crank pulley you can seperate the trigger wheel from it. Applying heat to the metal might assist in the removal.

Hope this helps,
Brent

[neil85ae86]

I was afraid I bend it or warp it with heat, so I did it the hard way (wish I had some pics). Note: this applies to a Ford Escort crank dampener/pulley.

1) I used a 3 fingered puller to remove the dampened accessory belt pulley. This leaves you with a cast steel cylinder that the toothed wheel is pressed onto

2) I then drilled two holes, each hole was drilled into the cast steel cylinder right where the cylinder and the toothed wheel meet, try to make sure as little, if any of the toothed wheel comes in contact with the drill. You want to drill a few millimeters deeper than the thickness of the thoothed wheel.

3) then cut between the two holes either with a jig saw and a metal bit or an angle grinder with a 1/16" cutting disk

4) cut from the open end of the cylinder to where the drill protruded below the toothed wheel

5) once I got this far, a light tap with a hammer on the cast cylinder (not the toothed wheel!) was all that was necessary to separate the toothed wheel

I wish I took pictures but time is extrememly precious these days so didn't get any, I drew this up, hope it helps

<img src="http://members.rogers.com/neildanby/ima ... JPG"></img>

Hopefully in the next couple weeks I'll have the toothed wheel mounted and I can look forward to hearing my car run for the first time in months.

Neil
Squirted 4agte AE86

[rondefly]

Could you tell me the OD of the 36 tooth-1 wheel you took off the escort?

Thankyou

Ron Triano

[neil85ae86]

I can check later when I get home, I'm almost certain the inside diameter is 100mm, and I'll estimate the outside diameter is 140-145mm.

Neil
Squirted 4agte AE86