Received my RCP last week with telemetry. Installed it on an E30 to be used in WRL, Chumpcar etc.. Sensors include: water, oil temp & pressure, fuel level, rpm, tps. Drivers multi function warning light for oil pressure, water temp and voltage (e30 alternator belt drives water pump).
We will test it first time at a Chumpcar Road America race next week and WRL race in May. If works as we hope, the device will also be installed and move between a 69' 2002 for vintage racing, as well as an E21 and 997 GT3 track day cars.
Setup and calibration was relatively easy. One hair pulling issue with Lua Scripting the multi function light. Having issues with fuel level calibration but will figure it out and fine tune eventually.
E30 TPS is not variable resistance. Just two values, closed or WOT. Plan to try to hack a variable resistance TPS sensor to the accelerator pedal. Would be nice to see who is really flat out in turn X and who is telling little white lies!
Will be interesting to see how real time the telemetry is, for coaching. Would be nice to get in the car, on the track coaching input via RCP telemetry & radios as well, rather than after fact like Traqmate.
Minneapolis E30 Install
Moderators: JeffC, rdoherty, stieg
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jeffmcaffer
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Sat May 07, 2016 9:26 pm
Hey Ed,
I race an E30 in Pro3 in Washington and just discovered RCP. Exactly what I was looking for (and was contemplating building myself!). I'm very interested in what you have done for connecting up the different senders. Perhaps we should start an "E30 install" thread and capture all the info there?
I want to keep my VDO gauges for oil temp/pres and water temp. Debating do I add more senders or split the signal. What did you do?
TPS solution? I was thinking of adapting a "normal" one (say the Ford one on the RCP site) and mounting on the throttle body. Saw a lever type sender somewhere that might also be good. Race weekend coming. Will be scouring the paddock to see what others have done...
Fuel? What did you do there? There is an E30 M42 thread with sender calibration numbers. Have you tried those? Did they make sense for you?
I'd like to also do brake pressure, speed, rpm (of course) and O2 off the AEM Uego already installed.
Also curious where you mounted the unit and what (if anything) you are using for a dash (and its mounting)
Jeff
I race an E30 in Pro3 in Washington and just discovered RCP. Exactly what I was looking for (and was contemplating building myself!). I'm very interested in what you have done for connecting up the different senders. Perhaps we should start an "E30 install" thread and capture all the info there?
I want to keep my VDO gauges for oil temp/pres and water temp. Debating do I add more senders or split the signal. What did you do?
TPS solution? I was thinking of adapting a "normal" one (say the Ford one on the RCP site) and mounting on the throttle body. Saw a lever type sender somewhere that might also be good. Race weekend coming. Will be scouring the paddock to see what others have done...
Fuel? What did you do there? There is an E30 M42 thread with sender calibration numbers. Have you tried those? Did they make sense for you?
I'd like to also do brake pressure, speed, rpm (of course) and O2 off the AEM Uego already installed.
Also curious where you mounted the unit and what (if anything) you are using for a dash (and its mounting)
Jeff
Pro3 #24
We also race an E30 in Chumpcar.
We are installing a Racecapture pro MK2 and replacing the instrument panel with a Galaxy Tab A, 10 inch.
It would be interesting to hear what sensors or leads that go to the BMW instrument panel can be used without installing additional ones. Please share experiences.
We already got to work the TPS, which we replaced with "Throttle Position Sensor TPS Bosch 0280120406 Fits 535i 735i e32 e34 6 pin" that we found used on Ebay. It is mechanically identical, so it goes on the same 2 screws, but it has both the 3 original open/close leads, which we connected where the original's were, and 3 additional pins for variable resistance which go to the Racecapture. It works perfectly.
We also installed a break pressure sensor the 150 bar that Autosport sells. There is an additional port on the bottom of the master cylinder; an adapter is needed to go from 1/8 NPT of the sensor to M10 on the BMW. For convenience we installed a 10" break line from that port and bended it upwards so that the sensor visible. It also works perfectly.
We included a gear position indicator with a math calculation. Gear = math.floor(Speed/RPM)*264. It works great. It works on the E30 because the gear ratio is very linear and that is where the 264 comes from. One could put some if statement for every gear looking at videos and taking note of Speed vs RPM and Gear.
We would like to get the other indicators from the original sensors on the car, if someone can pitch in some help.
We are installing a Racecapture pro MK2 and replacing the instrument panel with a Galaxy Tab A, 10 inch.
It would be interesting to hear what sensors or leads that go to the BMW instrument panel can be used without installing additional ones. Please share experiences.
We already got to work the TPS, which we replaced with "Throttle Position Sensor TPS Bosch 0280120406 Fits 535i 735i e32 e34 6 pin" that we found used on Ebay. It is mechanically identical, so it goes on the same 2 screws, but it has both the 3 original open/close leads, which we connected where the original's were, and 3 additional pins for variable resistance which go to the Racecapture. It works perfectly.
We also installed a break pressure sensor the 150 bar that Autosport sells. There is an additional port on the bottom of the master cylinder; an adapter is needed to go from 1/8 NPT of the sensor to M10 on the BMW. For convenience we installed a 10" break line from that port and bended it upwards so that the sensor visible. It also works perfectly.
We included a gear position indicator with a math calculation. Gear = math.floor(Speed/RPM)*264. It works great. It works on the E30 because the gear ratio is very linear and that is where the 264 comes from. One could put some if statement for every gear looking at videos and taking note of Speed vs RPM and Gear.
We would like to get the other indicators from the original sensors on the car, if someone can pitch in some help.
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jeffmcaffer
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Sat May 07, 2016 9:26 pm
@wcorredor what did you use for the M10 - 1/8NPT adapter? I've been searching all over for one and find everything BUT that. Lots of female M10 to male 1/8NPT. Your guidance would be appreciated.
I'm looking a the TPS you mention. The ebay seller appears out of stock. There are others but getting pricey...
On other experiences I have and AEM AFR hooked up. it reads a bit high but I can just recalibrate. Tapped into the fuel sensor line and am getting something that looks accurate and the orginal guage still works! My oil pressure setup is off. Using the sensor from Autosport but basically getting nothing reasonable. Likely my issue but have not tracked it down. I have redundant guages so it has not been a priority.
Thanks
I'm looking a the TPS you mention. The ebay seller appears out of stock. There are others but getting pricey...
On other experiences I have and AEM AFR hooked up. it reads a bit high but I can just recalibrate. Tapped into the fuel sensor line and am getting something that looks accurate and the orginal guage still works! My oil pressure setup is off. Using the sensor from Autosport but basically getting nothing reasonable. Likely my issue but have not tracked it down. I have redundant guages so it has not been a priority.
Thanks
Pro3 #24
Sorry it took long to answer, I hadn't seen your post.
Yes, those metric adapters are hard to find. Go to www.summitracing.com and type "autometer adapter". They have 1/8 female to 10, 12 and 14mm male.
As far as TPS, this one works and is less expensive "Standard Motor Products TH109 Throttle Position Sensor". It is the same part as the original BMW. It is the one I installed. $130 at Amazon.com. It has the same 2 screws but 6 wires, 3 for original E30 connection and 3 new for you position that go to Racecapture. Make sure you calibrate the rotation of the TPS as BMW manual indicates, so you don't screw up the wide open/close throttle positions. You have to rotate and hear the clicks or measure continuity at open and close.
This will work for oil pressure to be hooked up at the bottom where your current sensor is. You can put a "T" there. Eyourlife Universal 100PSI Pressure Transducer Sender Solenoid for Oil Fuel Gas Air Water #E5 only $19 at Amazon.com
This will work for coolant temp
AEM 30-2012 Water / Coolant / Oil Temperature Sensor Kit $39 at Amazon. You can look for an inlet in your thermostat housing or put an adapter like this one "Dewhel Aluminum Black Water Temp Meter Temperature Gauge Joint Pipe Radiator Sensor Adaptor Clamps 36mm" on your main house (also at Amazon).
This should work for break pressure BephaMart 1000Psi Stainless Steel Pressure Transducer Sender for Oil Fuel Air Water. $28 at Amazon. You need over 700PSI sensor for breaks.
Hope this helps.
wcorredor
Yes, those metric adapters are hard to find. Go to www.summitracing.com and type "autometer adapter". They have 1/8 female to 10, 12 and 14mm male.
As far as TPS, this one works and is less expensive "Standard Motor Products TH109 Throttle Position Sensor". It is the same part as the original BMW. It is the one I installed. $130 at Amazon.com. It has the same 2 screws but 6 wires, 3 for original E30 connection and 3 new for you position that go to Racecapture. Make sure you calibrate the rotation of the TPS as BMW manual indicates, so you don't screw up the wide open/close throttle positions. You have to rotate and hear the clicks or measure continuity at open and close.
This will work for oil pressure to be hooked up at the bottom where your current sensor is. You can put a "T" there. Eyourlife Universal 100PSI Pressure Transducer Sender Solenoid for Oil Fuel Gas Air Water #E5 only $19 at Amazon.com
This will work for coolant temp
AEM 30-2012 Water / Coolant / Oil Temperature Sensor Kit $39 at Amazon. You can look for an inlet in your thermostat housing or put an adapter like this one "Dewhel Aluminum Black Water Temp Meter Temperature Gauge Joint Pipe Radiator Sensor Adaptor Clamps 36mm" on your main house (also at Amazon).
This should work for break pressure BephaMart 1000Psi Stainless Steel Pressure Transducer Sender for Oil Fuel Air Water. $28 at Amazon. You need over 700PSI sensor for breaks.
Hope this helps.
wcorredor
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jeffmcaffer
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Sat May 07, 2016 9:26 pm
Thanks for the detailed reply and the pointer to the adapter. In your original post you mentioned a short brake line. Is that standard male/male? Then you used a female/female coupler and screwed the adapter into that?
I was thinking of taking one of the brake lines and tee'ing into it.
* a short (8" line from Napa) from master cylinder to a 10mm three way Tee.
* Normal brake (e.g., to rear) out one port of the Tee
* this adapter and the sensor in the other port of the Tee
I did end up getting one of the BMW parts off ebay with the wiring harness. Read some things on the net saying that they don't have wide open throttle (WOT) indicator but the one I received definitely has continuity for idle and then on a different wire pair as it approaches WOT. I have not tested the position voltage sweep yet.
Oil sender is in though I must have wired something wrong as the pressures are not right and don't vary enough.
I found a great flexible line with a 1/8 NPT fitting on the end for remote mounting the oil sensor and original switch. Oil temp I'm doing with a replacement filler plug.
Jeff
[/list]
I was thinking of taking one of the brake lines and tee'ing into it.
* a short (8" line from Napa) from master cylinder to a 10mm three way Tee.
* Normal brake (e.g., to rear) out one port of the Tee
* this adapter and the sensor in the other port of the Tee
I did end up getting one of the BMW parts off ebay with the wiring harness. Read some things on the net saying that they don't have wide open throttle (WOT) indicator but the one I received definitely has continuity for idle and then on a different wire pair as it approaches WOT. I have not tested the position voltage sweep yet.
Oil sender is in though I must have wired something wrong as the pressures are not right and don't vary enough.
I found a great flexible line with a 1/8 NPT fitting on the end for remote mounting the oil sensor and original switch. Oil temp I'm doing with a replacement filler plug.
Jeff
[/list]
Pro3 #24
See the pictures attached for our break pressure set up.
We connected a 10mm bubble flare on a small break line to a free spot on the bottom of the pump. And then a 10mm to 1.8 NPT adapter at the other end.
We connected a 10mm bubble flare on a small break line to a free spot on the bottom of the pump. And then a 10mm to 1.8 NPT adapter at the other end.
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- Break sensor 2.jpg (128.03 KiB) Viewed 12516 times
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- Break Sensor1.jpg (126.45 KiB) Viewed 12520 times
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jeffmcaffer
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Sat May 07, 2016 9:26 pm
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jeffmcaffer
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Sat May 07, 2016 9:26 pm
@wcorredor As mentioned, I got one of the TPS sensors you mentioned and went to install it today. I found that it is opposite the original E30 switch. That is, the microswitch closes (continuity) at idle ( you can hear the click) by turning it all the way COUNTER clockwise (when looking down on the switch in its installed position). The switch opens as soon as you come off idle and the other switch closes after about 40deg of sweep clockwise.
The alternative part we've been talking about is exact opposite. Microswitch is closed (click) all the way clockwise.
In theory, I could "cross wire" the switch and as long as the they get closed at more or less the right time, it doesn;t much matter -- continuity is continuity. Unfortunately, in my setup I cannot rotate the sensor in its mount far enough to get the microswitch to close at wide open throttle (WOT). So it will idle fine but will never think that is WOT. Note that it does if you manually pull the throttle lever all the way but using the gas pedal I don't get that full throw and the switch does not go on.
Did you test both ends of the range using the gas pedal. Did you flip the wire colors when connecting into the harness?
Thanks for your help/thoughts
The alternative part we've been talking about is exact opposite. Microswitch is closed (click) all the way clockwise.
In theory, I could "cross wire" the switch and as long as the they get closed at more or less the right time, it doesn;t much matter -- continuity is continuity. Unfortunately, in my setup I cannot rotate the sensor in its mount far enough to get the microswitch to close at wide open throttle (WOT). So it will idle fine but will never think that is WOT. Note that it does if you manually pull the throttle lever all the way but using the gas pedal I don't get that full throw and the switch does not go on.
Did you test both ends of the range using the gas pedal. Did you flip the wire colors when connecting into the harness?
Thanks for your help/thoughts
Pro3 #24
There may be different part numbers for different cars. I had the same issue with the sendor on my firts post and inverting the wires won't work for the reasons you mentined. I finally found the part number Th109 I mentioned on a later post that works exactly as the original E30.
With the pedal or manually I have the exact same limits. Perhaps you need to adjust the wire or remove the kickdown swith as we did. We replaced it with a screw to make sure that the pedal was getting to 100%. You may not have a kickdown swith, not all models have it. Look for it at bottom of pedal, it clicks.
Wcorredor
With the pedal or manually I have the exact same limits. Perhaps you need to adjust the wire or remove the kickdown swith as we did. We replaced it with a screw to make sure that the pedal was getting to 100%. You may not have a kickdown swith, not all models have it. Look for it at bottom of pedal, it clicks.
Wcorredor