What have I broken...?

Megajolt Kit assembly Question and Answers. Be sure to review the <a href="http://www.autosportlabs.net/MJLJ_V4_kit_assembly_guide">Kit assembly guide</a>

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Edwardatherton
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Location: Manchester, England
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What have I broken...?

Post by Edwardatherton »

I started sodlering the kit together and took it out to the garage to test for the correct voltages.

Everything checked fine, and I was so surprised that I started checking again! The multimeter probe slipped and sparked briefly on one of the diodes by the plug. After that I do not get any voltages (5 or 12) on the board.

I have changed the diodes (not the zener one because I couldn't find one) and capacitors without success - is it possible to get another voltage regulator from somewhere?
Land Rover 1957 S1 88" 2.5 petrol/LPG

brentp
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Post by brentp »

Hi,

Once you replaced the diodes were you able to re-verify +12v? Trace back from your supply through the molex connector down to the +12v input on the voltage regulator.

If, you see 12v on the input to the voltage regulator but not +5v on the output then you may consider replacing it. However, since you shorted it out near the 12v section it may very well not be damaged. Again- make sure you see +12v on the input of the regulator before you consider replacing it.

However, if you do need to swap it out, suitable replacements are: LF50 (StMicro) LM2937-ET-5.0, or a standard 7805 should work OK.

Regards,
Brent Picasso
CEO and Founder, Autosport Labs
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Edwardatherton
Posts: 30
Joined: Sun Jul 01, 2007 9:50 am
Location: Manchester, England
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Post by Edwardatherton »

Thanks Brent. I had a good look this morning and found the problem - you might be able to see it in the picture...

The 'track' on the underneath of the board (just underneath where it says 'D2' appears broken). Is it simply a case of soldering a wire between the molex connector and the diode?
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Land Rover 1957 S1 88" 2.5 petrol/LPG

MartinM
Posts: 433
Joined: Sat Aug 27, 2005 12:08 pm

Post by MartinM »

Interesting!

I would either:
- scrape away the green mask immediately either side of the gap and bridge the gap with solder
- essentially do the same as above but use a piece of wire (end of a resistor type thickness) to bridge between the two connection points

Edwardatherton
Posts: 30
Joined: Sun Jul 01, 2007 9:50 am
Location: Manchester, England
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Post by Edwardatherton »

Thanks very much!

Top tip to anyone else starting the project...

When you get the kit, do not start soldering it together in the evening when you are extremely tired! I was quite excited when it arrived and couldn't wait to get started!
Land Rover 1957 S1 88" 2.5 petrol/LPG

dr.occa
Posts: 243
Joined: Fri Feb 23, 2007 10:52 pm
Location: TX

Post by dr.occa »

good advice E but i still did so late at night (only opportunity - family took precedence). i just had coffee on the burner ready :)

brentp
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Post by brentp »

Looks like you found your problem. That trace acted like a fuse when your test probe slipped.

Tip #2: Use a current-limited power supply when testing, such as a 9v battery. :)
Brent Picasso
CEO and Founder, Autosport Labs
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Edwardatherton
Posts: 30
Joined: Sun Jul 01, 2007 9:50 am
Location: Manchester, England
Contact:

Post by Edwardatherton »

All finished for the moment - installed a new bit of wire to bridge the 'gap', installed the last bits and cased it this morning before work.
Then remembered that I need to install the twin map option switch!
Oh well! More work tonight...
Land Rover 1957 S1 88" 2.5 petrol/LPG

dr.occa
Posts: 243
Joined: Fri Feb 23, 2007 10:52 pm
Location: TX

Post by dr.occa »

Edwardatherton wrote:All finished for the moment - installed a new bit of wire to bridge the 'gap', installed the last bits and cased it this morning before work.
Then remembered that I need to install the twin map option switch!
Oh well! More work tonight...
just love those times when you cleaned up and thought you were done... :roll: i understand all too well.

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