New to MJLJ and a little nervous!

[performancetheory]

Hi everyone, for a little background information about me, my name is Michael, I own an 85 Toyota Corolla SR-5 and have a high compression 4a-ge in my garage awaiting installation. I have decided to use the mjlj as well as the megasquirt for my fuel and spark management. I have some basic questions about the installation of this unit.

1.) What do I do with the cold start injector?

2.) What do I do about the air passages that bypass the throttle body's throttle plate?

3.) What do I do about the line that goes from the intake manifold to the pcv valve into the crank case?

4.) When I hook up the MAP sensor line, is that the ONLY thing I need to leave intact on the intake plenum is a nipple for the line to hook up to it? Should I weld all other holes/passages shut except for the nipple for the MAP sensor line to attach to?

5.) How do I initially set up the timing for this unit? what I mean is at what position should the crankshaft be at when the 'missing tooth' crosses over the hal effect sensor that goes into the MJLJ?

6.) Is the timing of the entire system based on TDC relative to this 'missing tooth' passing over the hall effect sensor? Meaning, using the software am I able to tell the unit that when the 'missing tooth' passes over the sensor, the current crank position will be at 56 degrees btdc? Or do I have to set the basic setting?

Thanks and sorry for the long post, but these are my only remaining concerns before I order my MJLJ and get to soldering

-Michael

[Luca Lagonigro]

Well I think you should post questions from 1 to 4 directly at the MegaSquirt Grouop as I believe ther is no better place that that:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/megasquirt/


Questions 5 is answered in this pages:

http://www.bgsoflex.com/mjl/mjl_edis_summary.html

http://www.dainst.com/info/edis/edis.html

Question 6:

Once you've installaed your VRS sensor and EDIS, leave the MJLJ UNPLUGGED at this point, turn on the engine and move the sensor or the trigger wheel (depending on your setup) until your timing is setted to 10° BTDC. Now plug the MJLJ module and, if you havent done it yet, enter the desidered advance values in the MAP/RPM table, press UPDATE CONFIG in the tuning software and you're done.

[brentp]

Don't forget to click "write flash" after clicking "update config"! the "write flash" makes the update persist after power cycling.

I wonder if I should always have it write the config to flash..

[vw16vt]

I would think that it could be good idea that it would always write the config to flash, so that if you forget to do "write flash" you don't need to start all over again.

[performancetheory]

I just want to make sure, I want the missing tooth to cross the sensor at 50 degrees btdc, and that will set my base timing to 10 degrees btdc right? thanks, and sorry about the first 4 questions I was very tired haha

[brentp]

Actually, for the 4 cylinder, you want the sensor to be 90 degrees before the missing tooth when #1 is at TDC.

the EDIS module will default to 10 degrees in it "limp home mode" (when no controller is hooked up to it).

So, for the 4AG, you could mount the wheel so the missing tooth is pointing up when #1 is at TDC, and mount the sensor on the intake side, centered on the tooth which is 90 degrees to the left (counter clockwise).

Or, you could mount the wheel with the missing tooth down, and the sensor on the exhaust side. It's still 90 degrees BTDC. This is what I did on my installation.

[performancetheory]

so I was wrong, what needs to be done is set the crank to tdc, count counter-clockwise 9 teeth, and thats where the sensor goes. I need to get a welder. thanks for the help everyone!

[TonyBray]

Ok, we all know you posted some questions that really don't fit this forum but I will help you out anyway because I am doing the same thing.

1.) What do I do with the cold start injector? Remove it and block of the plenum where it was. MegaSquirt has better control over the injectors and modifes PW to cover cold start.

2.) What do I do about the air passages that bypass the throttle body's throttle plate? Nothing! You should have a screw that allows you to adjust the amount of air that passes for idle or you may have had a idle air bypass controller that electronically moved a pintle to adjust the idle (like when the a/c was turned on). If you have this, unplug it, remove it, manually adjust the pintle depth for the idle you want and reinstall but do not reconnect it.

3.) What do I do about the line that goes from the intake manifold to the pcv valve into the crank case? Leave it intact. Pistons moving up and down create air pressure inside the engine case. PCV means positive crankcase ventilation. If the pressure could not vent out, you would build up pressure under the pistons as they are moving down, causing drag. It vents to the manifold for smog reasons. Either leave it in place or reroute to one of the small air filter type ends and plug the hole in the plenum. It doesn't hurt anything connected the way it is.

4.) When I hook up the MAP sensor line, is that the ONLY thing I need to leave intact on the intake plenum is a nipple for the line to hook up to it? Should I weld all other holes/passages shut except for the nipple for the MAP sensor line to attach to? Well, you don't want any vacuum leaks. But you might not want to weld everything else shut. You can get assorted vacuum caps at your FLAPS (freindly local auto parts store) with small spring style clamps. Then if you ever needed another vacuum signal for anything, it's easy to remove.

#'s 5 & 6 have already been answered.

--Tony